Raw steel frame care/rustproofing

Nearly got all the parts for my new build, but before I put it all together I wanted to ask about what to do with the frame.

It is a Black Market Mob, made of True Temper Supertherm steel. The previous owner stripped the paint off so now I'm left with the bare metal. I want to leave it raw, but if I do will it rust? Will I need to constantly apply linseed oil or some other framesaver stuff? I hear if you clearcoat then the clearcoat can get chipped, which I wouldn't want. Should I just forget having it raw and get it painted to protect it?

Any help appreciated.

http://www.peytocycles.com/true-temper-steel-bicycle-tubing/

Don't waste time with clearcoat, it's poreous and water will get in. Pour some engine oil on a rag and apply generously to the frame. Ideally should be left in the sun afterwards, but left in front of a heat lamp for half a day or so would be fine too, this allows the oil to leach into the pores of the metal and actually give decent protection. Wipe the excess and repeat the process and you should be good to go. In England rust is more or less inevitable, it's pretty much not if but when. This is pretty much your best bet.

It's going to rust unless you paint it no matter what you do; that's about all there is to it.

numerous threads on this chris, for example >http://www.lfgss.com/thread15807.html

spray this inside the frame too
http://shop.18bikes.co.uk/products.php?plid=m12b3s403p39&rs=gb

Thanks for the info.

I'm guessing here, but surely that frame is made of some beefy steel rather than the uber thin walled stuff? If not protected it will rust, but I can't imagine that it's going do much harm.

Do like the way it looks? Would you like it if it was rusty?

I've clearcoated a frame, but not yet finished building it up. The main reason I did it was because I didn't want rust on my clothes. The engine oil idea sounds really good.

ive clearcoated nickel plated & bare steel frames and it hasnt chipped or rusted.If you use a binding coat then a good quality 2k clearcoat after it will be fine
Wax oil the inside of the tubes and your good to go

Clear powdercoat is just like paint isn't it, except clear?
My clearcoated kona is v e r y s l o w l y rusting, i can see that, but surely only at the same rate as any powdercoated frame?

Sort of. But my understanding (at least with wetpaint) is you'd have an antirust primer. If it's a straight clearcoat you don't get this.

I'm still not 100% why you need an antirust primer, as I though you needed water + oxygen fo rust. But if the thing about paint being pourus is true, I guess that's why.

Also other internetz rumer has it that clearcoat is wetter and doesn't adhere as well.

spray this inside the frame too
http://shop.18bikes.co.uk/products.php?plid=m12b3s403p39&rs=gb

That's £22.50 with postage. Feck. Basic motorcycle chain lube will do a similar job.

acf50 stuffs meant to hold off corrosion, designed for aircraft at sea, look on demontweeks or m&p
other than that petrol tank sealer, loads of types, i know one is clear, unsure how to apply to a frame tho

The oil treatment also slightly darkens the colour of the metal which can look kind of nice.

My Fly Tierra for example:

Almost a year after treating it with oil the chain and seatstays are starting to show a little rust although I was negligent with the oil there as opposed to the front triangle. Still 100% better performance than any clearcoat I've used.

Sweet, I'll probably do that then. Looks great.

Obviously I'm not going to take it out in the full-on rain, just want to prep it right before building it up.

clear powdercoat.

Get yourself some Bilt-Hamber Hydrate 80 to use on the raw frame
And some Bilt-Hamber Dynax S-50 Cavity Wax to spray inside the frame. This should give you adequate protection for a couple of years at least

The salt out on the roads at this time of year will make a mess of an uncoated frame. Which would be a shame.

Don't waste time with clearcoat, it's poreous and water will get in. Pour some engine oil on a rag and apply generously to the frame. Ideally should be left in the sun afterwards, but left in front of a heat lamp for half a day or so would be fine too, this allows the oil to leach into the pores of the metal and actually give decent protection. Wipe the excess and repeat the process and you should be good to go. In England rust is more or less inevitable, it's pretty much not if but when. This is pretty much your best bet.

I got some diesel engine oil from Halfords and rubbed it all over the frame with a rag. Going to leave it inbetween 2 radiators and do a second coat in the morning.

I also bought some Waxoyl to apply to the inside, but after reading some less-than-positive comments regarding it interfering with other components and leaking out of the frame, I think I'll give it a miss.

frame saver for the inside.

tip top.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ITLNzPoEqs"]YouTube
- Ol' Dirty Bastard-Shimmy Shimmy Ya[/ame]

frame saver for the inside.

tip top.

£22.50 in England though.

really? i bought mine for a tenner i think at argos cycles here is bristol. i managed 3 frames with it. four actually, so worth the investment in my mind if you have steel frame, raw or painted, old or new. get something inside it to protect it, especially if you are riding in this country.

Yep, online is £15 + £7.50 postage apparently.

Not sure if I can be bothered to treat the inside. I'm not going to be riding it in the rain, and I'll put plenty of grease round the seat tube, BB, and headset, so it should be alright.

Let us know how you get on.
In theory it should rust anyway from moisture in the air regardless of whether you ride it in the rain. Iron plus oxygen plus water = iron oxide (rust) every time.
But it does look fantastic in the raw.
I suspect that if you can oil it lightly and live with an occasional rub down with wet and dry once a year it'd be ok.
I got my Framesaver from Ceeway Bike Building Supplies an dit was a tenner last time I looked. But I agree with others, it's only with thin stuff like 531 and less that you need to worry about internal rusting, I think it'd be ok without.
I am not sure about the idea of heating the oil 'off' the frame. The whole point of the oil is to leave a film that blocks the oxygen and water. But if the guy says it works. I guess the whole thing is a bit of an experiment : if it don't work, you can always rub it down and coat it.
Or wrap it in cling film?