Backpacking South India for 4-6 weeks - tips?

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  • I'm taking some leave w/o pay come Feb to go backpacking around South India in an effort to escape this here chilly winter.

    I was thinking of flying into Mumbai, then looping up to the caves of Ajanta and Ellora. From there west coast, Goa and down to Kerela (vague I know, especially since they're pretty big distances) ....
    I'll probably fly out of Kochi.
    I've got 4-6 weeks to play with.

    Who's been?
    Where should I go - specific towns?
    Travel tips (general) (and for single white female)?
    Food tips?

    I went to Goa this year, but just spent 10 days drinking Kingfisher on the beach. This time I actually want to get some culture (as well as sun).

    Also, I'll probably try to sublet my room in Brixton for a reasonable price, so if anyone knows someone looking for short-term accomodation, please let me know.

  • Fly to Trivandrum, buy an Indian bicycle, Hero or Atlas for twenty quid, drape your two plastic bags of possessions over the handlebars, cycle to Pallolem, drink kingfisher, eat masala crab.

    Tip, take your own saddle, don't get run over, take bike on train. Bon Voyage.

  • I'm planning on taking very little so a bit of bike/scooter action is defs on the cards. Its the not getting run over that I'm worried about.... oh and getting on a train.

  • *'I went to Goa this year, but just spent 10 days drinking Kingfisher on the beach. This time I actually want to get some culture (as well as sun).'*
    [/B]
    [B]*With reference to your above comment...
    *
    There's plenty of culture in Goa!!! I should know as I was born there and have plenty of friends and family... and been going there for over 40 years! If you spend all your time just drinking on the beach then of course you won't soak up the local culture which is fairly wide and diverse...

  • If you intend on hiring a scooter, definitely get an international driving licence. The police in Goa will definitely stop you and ask for this on a regular basis. If you don't have it they expect money or they threaten to confiscate your scooter. It was the only downside to what is otherwise a beautiful place with lovely, friendly, giving people. Also, avoid the locally brewed Kingfisher. It's brewed with glycerol and will give you an upset stomach.

  • Wait! I didn't say there isn't any culture in Goa. There is loads - acknowledged and appreciated.
    I'm just saying on that particular trip I was a lazy arse (it was for a clinical trial and we couldn't travel very far from the clinic, hence I chose to sit on a beach and not go anywhere).
    This trip I've time for R&R AND culture.
    I so can't wait.....

  • I went at the same time last year.
    1.Go see tigers.

    2.If you use a guide book, use Lonely Planet, the one I had (a 2009 edition of something or the other (maybe rough guides)) was entirely wrong, all the time.

    But our itinerary was entirely different to yours and entirely made up as we went along.

    Oh, and I lost 1/2- 1 stone in India- good diet.

  • I bummed around India for a year 15 years ago - you'll have a great time. If you're heading for the bottom half definitely go to Ellora, stunning really. I think it's fair to say Goa is a lot of fun, but was the least "Indian" place I spent much time in - a lot of middle class white kids playing at being 60's hippies if I remember (me included at the time). Hampi is great. Gokarn (Om Beach) is beautiful - very empty back then but I think is a lot busier now. I really enjoyed Mamallapuram on the east coast as well. I know a lot of people like Kerala, but I found it a bit boring.

    Generally, I'd say spend as much time away from cities as you can, travel as light as possible, know you can haggle for everything (but be nice about it), accept you're going to get constant attention (especially being a vestern ladee) and keep your sense of humour. Take a mosquito net and buy Odomos repellant over there - everything we brought over from the UK was useless. I'd happily hop on a plane tomorrow but life and family won't see me doing that for a few years. Jealous!

  • Katie,

    I fully understood what you wrote in the first instance, but it literally states that Goa is a great place to get drunk and stay by the beach and nothing else... Ok no issue and certainly don't wish to get into endless threads of discussion with this...

    Enjoy your trip in Kerala, oil massage and vegeterian and sea food curries!!!

    Abraco. c_c

    Wait! I didn't say there isn't any culture in Goa. There is loads - acknowledged and appreciated.
    I'm just saying on that particular trip I was a lazy arse (it was for a clinical trial and we couldn't travel very far from the clinic, hence I chose to sit on a beach and not go anywhere).
    This trip I've time for R&R AND culture.
    I so can't wait.....

  • I like see food. Easy to know where it is.

  • Hi Hanson,

    Yes, I am ashamed to say that corruption is on a full scale out there... A bribe seems to be the everyday occurrance - poverty, etc.
    However, thanks for the kind words and glad you enjoyed your time out there. Furthermore, I wish to state that it is a Christian state (Old Portuguese colony) and we are very strong Roman Catholics and people won't rip you off for a single rupee on a little bus with a crucifix on the front... just not done...

    Abraco amigo. c_c

    If you intend on hiring a scooter, definitely get an international driving licence. The police in Goa will definitely stop you and ask for this on a regular basis. If you don't have it they expect money or they threaten to confiscate your scooter. It was the only downside to what is otherwise a beautiful place with lovely, friendly, giving people. Also, avoid the locally brewed Kingfisher. It's brewed with glycerol and will give you an upset stomach.

  • Pomfret, Kind fish and simply hard to beat... after a swim and oil massage... Also good for dental treatment, very cheap and kept very clean for the high European standards...

  • I haven't travelled round India much, but one place I did go is Hampi, I would definitely recommend it.

    If you do go there, check out the Mango Tree restaurant. It's a little outside the main village but well worth the trip for the view while your having your lunch.

  • I haven't been to the area you're interested in but if you're still mulling over your options and haven't got a flight yet then consider going to the Andaman Islands instead, I was there 11 years ago and although it's probably changed a lot it'll still be a special part of the world.
    You can get a flight from Chennai to Port Blair or a boat from Kolkata, our boat took about six days due to a storm but it's usually less.
    Then check out Havelock Island, I spent a month there with some pretty cool people from all over the world, including very chilled locals.
    Some other islands let you camp out and go 'wild'.
    It's a completely different India, might not be what you're looking for but worth a read.

  • +1 to Hampi - brilliant place - stunning scenery and it was Holi when I was there so was pretty mental (it's the festival of colour where everyone throws dye at each other).

    Other than the places mentioned by others (particularly Palolem in Goa and Kochin itself) I'd also try yo go to Mysore for the palace.

    If you have time the temples in Madurai are also stunning but it's a bit out of your way. God I'm jealous - I love the place. Must plan a rip back when I finish my contract.

    There are two places that I can't remember the names of that I also liked - one was a hill station and the other was one of the national parks. Unfortunately I didn't see a tiger.

    It's all good.

    I ended up being an extra in a film when I was there which was quality!

    Travel wise it's hard for me to say as am a white male - I just threw myself into it and had no problems. I'd say make sure you dress culturally respectful & take similar precautions to travelling in London.

    Food wise also had no problems - just used common sense.

    I did end up in hospital with a chest infection and although the hospital was basic I was extremely well looked after both by the hospital and the indian family running the guesthouse I was staying in - they visited me every day with food.

  • Go to Ooty and Cochin.

    Don't go on a rice boat.

  • Paid today £443 Lon-Mumbai
    5 weeks piss farting about
    Kochi-Lon
    Bring on 2011!
    Happy New Year folks.

  • The Taj Mahal is worth the train trip north (pay a few quid more for a sleeper if you can). Agra is a dump, with little else to recommend it, but the Taj is completely ethereal and very beautiful.

    Have a great trip...

  • 5 weeks piss farting about

    Yeah I got the ameobic dysentry too, looked like Mike Stipe by the time I was over it

  • Agreed, Taj and the Red fort in Agra are beautiful, but that city is really fucked up.
    Could also advice to spend a couple of days in New Delhi, Old Delhi is beautiful imo,
    Ow watch your belongings! Got my iPhone and wallet stolen.. Btw haven't been to the south, shame!
    Good trip!

  • Rice boat on the Kerala backwaters.

    Trust me, Kat...

    Keralan cuisine is amazing too... very distinctive. Heavy on coconut. Lobster masala FTW.

  • Also... the Taj is fucking miles away from anywhere in southern india.

  • Rice boat on the Kerala backwaters.

    Trust me, Kat...

    This

  • Mmm, not going North. At all. Don't want to be rushed. The Taj can wait til next time.

    At the mo, the plan is to head from Mumbai to Naski (to drink wine) then Ellora to look at caves. From there to Pune, then Goa. East to Hampi, then sth to Bengaluru/Mysore/Kerala.
    I'm alreay worried I'm trying to do too much. These distances are BIG... I imgaine there is going to be quite a few long over night buses which I guess just add to the experience. Anyhow, I've got complete flexibility. Just need to be in Kochi by the 19th to fly back. Simples.

  • Immodium, and chilled baby wipes. Standard.

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Backpacking South India for 4-6 weeks - tips?

Posted by Avatar for kattiep @kattiep

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