Do I need a stronger wheel?

So it seems I've bent my rear wheel. It's just a cheapy OmeggleMach3 number and I'm slightly concerned that if I get it trued it's not going to stay that way very long as I am somewhat on the heavy side and, you know, London road surfaces and all.

The hub's fine so should I get it rebuilt to a better rim that is less likely to deform under me?

do you have the money?
yes do it, I'm also in the heavy side, having a stronger wheel and save of lost of headaches

I can afford to buy a better rim, yeah. Especially if it means I'm not going to have to have it trued every few months.

What wheel are you using btw?

I can afford to buy a better rim, yeah. Especially if it means I'm not going to have to have it trued every few months.

What wheel are you using btw?

I'd get a stiffer rim, if the wheel you have constantly needs retruing. Also, if the wheel is perfectly true to start with, it is far less likely to go out of true.

Yes, get a stronger wheel.

I too am heavy, and a little fat as well. I've had a lot better fortune with a tandem rim laced with heavy gauge spokes. Alternatives, if you're rear brakeless, would be a touring rim. Both will be worth the money.

+1 to Smallfurry. You can end up saving a lot of money by buying a wheel jig and keeping your wheels true yourself.

I bough a Spuknik in 48h, but there are not no longer aviable.
go for deepVs or Chukkers they are tuff and strong
as important of good compoments is a good build, go for someone who know what he is doing

I'd get a stiffer rim, if the wheel you have constantly needs retruing. Also, if the wheel is perfectly true to start with, it is far less likely to go out of true.

Thanks, mate. Suggestions on stiffer rims that aren't exorbitantly expensive?

The guys at the shop checked the wheels before I bought them and they were pretty much spot on so I don't think it was bodgy to start with.

Thanks, mate. Suggestions on stiffer rims that aren't exorbitantly expensive?

The guys at the shop checked the wheels before I bought them and they were pretty much spot on so I don't think it was bodgy to start with.

No doubt it was fine. But a wheel built fresh is like anything else on a bike and will take some bedding in. Most wheels benefit from a service after about 500 miles.

I bough a Spuknik in 48h, but there are not no longer aviable.
go for deepVs or Chukkers they are tuff and strong
as important of good compoments is a good build, go for someone who know what he is doing

Thanks for that. I'm stuck with 36H as I will want to re-use the hub I have. I'm not fussed about weight particularly (lucky I know!)as it's just a hack city bike really although I love it dearly.

No doubt it was fine. But a wheel built fresh is like anything else on a bike and will take some bedding in. Most wheels benefit from a service after about 500 miles.

Ah gotcha. My gut feeling is this is more than just "bedding in" though. My rear-end was shimmying so violently I thought I was going to come off.

You haven't got loose cones have you?

blank face

Put another way: Are the nuts (one is the bearing cone, the other a locknut) that hold the bearings into the hubs loose? They're in between the fork/ends and the hub.

Put another way: Are the nuts (one is the bearing cone, the other a locknut) that hold the bearings into the hubs loose? They're in between the fork/ends and the hub.

Thanks, guys. I shall finish my coffee and go check.

Sorry, not keen on presuming ignorance.

Basically if all of the bits and bobs on that axle, most importantly ending in the cone, are loose then the rear wheel will feel like hell. To check, grab the top of the wheel and see if it rocks back and forth in the frame. If it does, and it's been like that for a while, take it to a shop and have it serviced. I only ask because untrue wheels don't always feel bad and rarely "violent". Also check your tyre, if it's getting frayed this can add play to the ride.

If not, return to plan A

Thanks, mate. Suggestions on stiffer rims that aren't exorbitantly expensive?

People on here will advise Deep V's etc. But I'm not a fan of gaining stiffness through depth alone. Its not like you see many touring bikes designed for heavy loads, rocking H and Sons hipster rims.

I'd go with a strong eyeleted rim with 32/36 standard butted spokes (Sapim Race, DT competition, etc).

There's loads of touring rims around. Some examples.

Velocity dyad
Mavic A319
Mavic A719
Halo ExciteR
DT Swiis DK540

All the above rims are wider than a standard road rim, so will only be compatible with 25mm or larger tyres. But a 25mm tyre on a 24mm wide rim, will roll nicely, and will be less likely to pinch flat, then one on a narrower rim.

I have recently built some new commuter/load carrying wheels with the Halo ExciteR's and really liked them. They where really easy to build with, and the wheel feel nice and stiff, even when the bike is loaded.

You haven't got loose cones have you?

My cheap fixie hubs, needed the bearings adjusting all the bloody time for a while. You might need a cone spanner to be able to tighten them (adjustables are too wide).

If you mean the Mach 1 Omega rims, one of my bikes has had these, and I've ridden thousands of miles on them, with no problem at all. And I'm heavy (19 stone, or close enough), so I'm wondering what went wrong with your wheel.

Was it accident damage (deep pothole), carelessness (jumping down stairs as if on a big BMX), or was there maybe an underlying fault (wheel not built up / tensioned properly)? It just struck me as odd, that particular rim would collapse, as I've not been easy on mine, and they've lasted really well.

Sorry, not keen on presuming ignorance.

Basically if all of the bits and bobs on that axle, most importantly ending in the cone, are loose then the rear wheel will feel like hell. To check, grab the top of the wheel and see if it rocks back and forth in the frame. If it does, and it's been like that for a while, take it to a shop and have it serviced. I only ask because untrue wheels don't always feel bad and rarely "violent". Also check your tyre, if it's getting frayed this can add play to the ride.

If not, return to plan A

Have checked and there's no side-to-side play with the wheel bolted into the frame so I guess my cones are OK? Tires are only a few months old and in good condition all over.

People on here will advise Deep V's etc. But I'm not a fan of gaining stiffness through depth alone. Its not like you see many touring bikes designed for heavy loads, rocking H and Sons hipster rims.

I'd go with a strong eyeleted rim with 32/36 standard butted spokes (Sapim Race, DT competition, etc).

There's loads of touring rims around. Some examples.

Velocity dyad
Mavic A319
Mavic A719
Halo ExciteR
DT Swiis DK540

All the above rims are wider than a standard road rim, so will only be compatible with 25mm or larger tyres. But a 25mm tyre on a 24mm wide rim, will roll nicely, and will be less likely to pinch flat, then one on a narrower rim.

I have recently built some new commuter/load carrying wheels with the Halo ExciteR's and really liked them. They where really easy to build with, and the wheel feel nice and stiff, even when the bike is loaded.

Thanks for the suggestions. Those Halos do look pretty good.

If you mean the Mach 1 Omega rims, one of my bikes has had these, and I've ridden thousands of miles on them, with no problem at all. And I'm heavy (19 stone, or close enough), so I'm wondering what went wrong with your wheel.

Was it accident damage (deep pothole), carelessness (jumping down stairs as if on a big BMX), or was there maybe an underlying fault (wheel not built up / tensioned properly)? It just struck me as odd, that particular rim would collapse, as I've not been easy on mine, and they've lasted really well.

Yup. Those are the ones. I weigh about the same as you. I'm pretty paranoid about potholes and haven't hit any big ones and I'm certainly no trickster so I guess that leaves the possibility they weren't built up properly at the start. Will swing by the shop I got them from and get their opinion.

The impacts on GA2G's bikes are absorbed through the frames seat cluster. So its probably not a fair comparison.

;)

Hope your kid keeps you up all night Smallfurry,
so you don't get a minutes sleep or peace. ;)

If you mean the Mach 1 Omega rims, one of my bikes has had these, and I've ridden thousands of miles on them, with no problem at all. And I'm heavy (19 stone, or close enough), so I'm wondering what went wrong with your wheel.

Was it accident damage (deep pothole), carelessness (jumping down stairs as if on a big BMX), or was there maybe an underlying fault (wheel not built up / tensioned properly)? It just struck me as odd, that particular rim would collapse, as I've not been easy on mine, and they've lasted really well.

I'm using Omega Mach 1's at the moment and so far so good. I'm not a particularly heavy rider but I hit a lot of potholes and go up and down a lot of curbs.

So it seems that the whole wheel's worth of spokes had lost tension. They were like wet noodles (I should have noticed this really). The guys at the shop are going to sort it out which is nice.

Glad you got it sorted. I'd recommend those rims/wheels, as they're really not bad, if properly built up.