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• #2
dont just clearcoat
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• #3
thread closed
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• #4
Nah I've already got the MTN laquer so I'm using that......so do I need to sand the paint surface before laquering?
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• #5
max 2000 grit and wet
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• #6
Cheers, dya reckon I could use 1200 cos I've got some of that in already so it'll save a trip into tarn?
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• #7
if the gold paint is metallic and rough to touch you should not sand sand it. If the the colour coat has already been laquered it will only require a light sanding the finer the better.
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• #8
When I say MTN Gold I mean that's the brand of paint i.e. Montana Gold but it's not gold colour it's just a plain blue. It is a fairly rough surface though to the touch.
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• #9
The colour coat of paint if a solid colour should be lightly sanded to remove imperfections before laquering. Metallic or pearlescent finishes shold be laquered without rubbing down.
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• #10
all a waste of time just clear coat it and ride it, its gonna chip like fuck anyways.
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• #11
Montana's aren't the cans you want to use on a bike because the paint never really hardens, it stays somewhat pliable which means it will cratch very easiy.
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• #12
Montana's aren't the cans you want to use on a bike because the paint never really hardens, it stays somewhat pliable which means it will cratch very easiy.
I'll bare that in mind for next time for now though short of sanding it all down again there's not much I can (or would anyway) do. Plenty of people have said mtn's fine for a respray so anyway it's on the bike now and that's where that mofo is stayin till it falls off or I do....and die.
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• #13
The colour coat of paint if a solid colour should be lightly sanded to remove imperfections before laquering. Metallic or pearlescent finishes shold be laquered without rubbing down.
That's cool, I'll just do this then hit it with a couple coats of laquer.
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• #14
all a waste of time just clear coat it and ride it, its gonna chip like fuck anyways.
yep.
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• #15
Or take it down yor local bodyshop and ask them to laquer it, 2pac is good tough stuff when cured.
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• #16
all paint or enamel chips like fuck nowdays. no lead in it apparently is the cause. not much you can do.
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• #17
all paint or enamel chips like fuck nowdays. no lead in it apparently is the cause. not much you can do.
But not using graff paint would help.
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• #18
well ne'r mind eh, it's done now. Old, low end frame gonna be used as a beater. OP was just outta interest really to see what the concensus was on sanding not what paint I should or shouldn't have used but I'll bare the 'don't use graff paint' thing in mind for next time and see how this paint job holds up - I've seen plenty of bikes done with the same paint that've held up well enough for my purposes.
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• #19
Hey guys, I can't start a new topic but thought this was the right one to post under. If I have scratched lets say a brake lever, can i sand it down and then polish it. Should this bring it back to its original condition? Really sucked today, I braked to hard and then couldnt get my feet out the pedals so i basically just collapsed and banged my head. And stupidly wasn't wearing a helmet.... I scraped my new brake levers, just wondered if it could be fixed.
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• #20
anyone?
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• #21
I'd try sanding and polishing your head too.
What is the finish on the brake levers - polished or matt
How long have you been cycling? By the sounds of it you are not very experienced, your bike is probably going to be involved in more crashes so fuck polishing the levers.
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• #22
Were the brake levers damaged mechanically? Do you really like them? Were they pantographed with a rare logo? How deep are the scratches? It's up to you really. It's unlikely that they will be returned to their original condition. You're asking for opinion on an unanswerable question.
Is it necessary to give a newly re-srayed frame (MTN Gold) a light sanding with wet/dry before putting a laquer on it? And if so what grade of w/d should I use? Cheers