Protruding non-drive side bottom bracket cup

Right,

After a longish ride my bike started to exhibit a problem: The non-drive side crank creaks when I put my foot down.

When I built my bike I borrowed a torque wrench and BB tool. However, I didn't have any hex keys for the wrench, so I took a punt on how tight the crank bolts would need to be, and used a bog-standard, long-handled hex key.

Months of everyday riding, no prob's. Then the creaking.

Yesterday I checked my crank bolts before leaving for work. They were loose, so I tightened them up with my hex key. I think I've a tendency of under-tightening bolts; though nothing has play in it as far as I can tell. The crank bolts seemed snug after being tightened, and bike felt better on the way to work.

Riding last night. Creaking returns.

Checked bike again this morning, crank bolts loose again, tighten with hex key, and here I am.

**Solution: **Buy a set of socket wrench compatible hex keys (they're dead cheap), and borrow the torque wrench again to make sure crank bolts are on spec'.

I'm also tempted to strip down the drivetrain, and then tighten everything back up (good thread, this thread). This way I will be reassured that each component is spot-on, and I can check for damage along the way.

I popped into my LBS for some bits today, and I tucked in a little advice about my crank bolts. I asked LBS folk whether or not anything felt loose. They said that I should leave my bike with them. Sure thing (easy thing/ sensible thing/ etc), 'cept for the fact that I'm keen to sort the problem myself. That's what learning is, innit?

So am I on the right track with my solution?

One comment from the LBS people is that I've not installed the non-drive side bb cup correctly, which currently protrudes beyond the frame. As I recall I couldn't get the cup in any further. Take a look at this...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/16525377@N07/4641345535/

... look okay?.. or have I cocked it up?

That's it really. I feel much better for talking this through.

My and many other people usual advice with any creaking in strip, clean re grease, reassemble which you seem to know jugging by your link in your op.

The non drive side b.b cup sticking out suggest to me that if you have no wobbling on the bottom bracket (you don't mention any) and the non drive side cup is tight that you are running a b.b for a 73 mm shell in a 68 mm shell. If it's out by about 5mm chances are that is your answer. If it's a shimano sealed b.b if you take it out is will have a sticker on it telling you the details of the b.b.

Tommy

Looking at your photo it's only a out a little. If the cup is tight I'd take the frame with b.b removed to your bike shop and get the threads chased.

I had a protruding BB (matron) and took it to my lbs who said it was fine.

Also, on another of my (many) (cheap) builds, the stack bolts have also come loose after one ride. I suspect they're not the right size but they seem to fit. Why else would ALL these come undone if done up (reasonably) tight?

Let us know what happens if you strip the drivechain.

Time for a new crank.

The ill fitting cup isn;t to blame, tightening up the crank bolt not enough when you first assembled is. Apparently when fixing new cranks it's advisable to tighten the crank to correct torque, then ride it 100m gently, then re-torque it, then another 100m more energetically, then re-torque, then one more 100m giving it some welly, then re-torque.

And no grease!* lolz

*I'm just trying to start the grease or no grease on the taper wars ...

Time for a new crank.

Oh.

Will check this evening.

when fixing new cranks it's advisable to tighten the crank to correct torque, then ride it 100m gently, then re-torque it, then another 100m more energetically, then re-torque, then one more 100m giving it some welly, then re-torque.

.

Do people do this?
Christs.

Non of my bike is torqued.

I just attempted to remove the non-drive side crank arm to inspect it's contact with the bb spindle, and a bit of the crank arm's thread came away with the self-extracting bolt. This may well have been due in part to the last few days continued re-tightening.

I am such a pillock.

My father's primary rule for anything mechanical is "It will always be more difficult than you think".

Bollocks.

Mebe I'm not the only one who's had trouble with Stronglight's self-extracting crank bolts.

I thought I'd write one last note, on the off chance that it'll help someone else later down the line; though it pretty much reflects what you'll find elsewhere around the forum.

My non-drive side bb cup was indeed a little bit loose. It's now tight. It still protrudes from the frame, but about a mm less than before.

Skully's "Have a cycle, torque up, cycle more, torque up, etc" is good advice, I reckon. Whether or not you're concerned by newtonmeters, re-tightening bolts during the first few miles of a new build is definitely a good shout.

Turns out the threads on my crank arm were not totally mullered (cheers to my LBS for not suggesting that I fork out for new cranks). I am now weary of self-extracting crank bolts, which seem to me to be a poor substitute for a crank puller.

Every day's a school day.

If you or anyone else do have stripped extraction bolts on a crank I know a man with a tool to fix.

Non of my bike is torqued.

+lots.
I just do it up till i reckon it's tight enough n iv not broken anything yet.
Crank bolts, wheel nuts etc get horsed up as tight as can be, bolts on my carbon stem get nipped till bars won't move.

I own a torque wrench but only really use it for working on engines, too expensive to screw things up and heat expansion can tighten/loosen things so i'd rather go by the book but bikes are pretty simple, it's either gonna fall off or isn't.

so i seem to have a similar issue

just installed a brand new veloce bb in a surly pacer. drive side goes in really easy but the non drive side cup is a bit tougher. screws in until there's a bout 1-2mm left between bb shell and the cup and then there's no way i can scew it in more, don't want to give it more welly and risk stripping the threads. I'd say i've applied plenty enough force.

anyhow, is it ok to ride with a bb where the non drive side cup isn't flush with the frame? Should i take the frame to my LBS to get the bb threads cleaned up?

so i seem to have a similar issue

just installed a brand new veloce bb in a surly pacer. drive side goes in really easy but the non drive side cup is a bit tougher. screws in until there's a bout 1-2mm left between bb shell and the cup and then there's no way i can scew it in more, don't want to give it more welly and risk stripping the threads. I'd say i've applied plenty enough force.

anyhow, is it ok to ride with a bb where the non drive side cup isn't flush with the frame? Should i take the frame to my LBS to get the bb threads cleaned up?

that should be fine. you probably got to the end of the thread inside the shell. now its in, just carry on with the build. my non drive side never went flush to the shell. never been a problem

just dropped my frame in at cyclelab on pitfield st, he had a look and found a load of residue in the threads so will clean em out for me