Ahead stem on threaded steer, is it possible?

So, I would like to convert my bike to ahead and I think I have found a suitable fork.

The only problem is that the top of it is threaded.

Is it possible to clamp an ahead stem with a 1 1/8" to 1" reducer shim to the threaded part?

I would've have thought it'd be fine, but I'm not sure it'll grip properly.

Input greatly appreciated.

So, I would like to convert my bike to ahead and I think I have found an unsuitable fork, because the top of it is threaded.

ftfy

yes, no problem.

really?

:)

why not? if it's long enough, with an ahead headset and a shim for the 1 1/8 stem, no problem.

I've done it more than once.

Just figured that a stem (or shim inside it) would grip only the peaks of the threading, and somehow not be enough contact.

Does beg the question: why not just use a quill-ahead convertor, why do they exist?

Skully - I did some research and that told me that it was fine because using a shim sorts the problem for you.

The reason I want change it is because the setup I have at them moment is a flexy POS.

I've had real trouble finding an unthreaded fork that's suitable and thought this might be a solution.

Using a converter would not solve the flex problem.

What's so special about the forks you need?

the headset compression in basically done but the star flanged nut and the stem will tighten just fine around the shim and the threaded steerer.

quill-ahead adapters are sht and look sht.

It's a Nagasawa frame and so I'd like something similar.

The forks I was thinking of getting are the Makino ones that popped up on here. Although I haven't measured up yet...

^haha!

I know, it is a bit. However, until I can get an exact match, it's going to have to do.

I'm going to Tokyo in September, so I'll get something sorted then.

Also, I've come to the conclusion that a mismatched but fast and comfortable bike is better than a pretty, but shitty one.

Unfortunately that decision making process has been slow and expensive!

Glad you took that in good humour. :-)

Personally I'd run the bike with a threaded headset until I sorted out new forks then maybe convert.

quill-ahead adapters are sht and look sht.

I have them on two bikes... One is a polo bike so it doesn't really matter wtf it looks like but the other looks great on my Roberts, i.e. it's invisible... You now no-thing! :P

Glad you took that in good humour. :-)

Personally I'd run the bike with a threaded headset until I sorted out new forks then maybe convert.

I think that might be the wisest option, I'm just too impatient!

Maybe I'll drop njs blogspot an email and see what they can find.

I'm not entirely convinced that the forks are Nagasawa though, they have no distinguishing markings and look very similar to the 'standard' njs fork.

I have them on two bikes... One is a polo bike so it doesn't really matter wtf it looks like but the other looks great on my Roberts, i.e. it's invisible... You now no-thing! :P

Not too bothered about the looks, Joe. More about the stiffness.

You are Platini & ICM£5.

You are Platini & ICM£5.

?!

I have them on two bikes... One is a polo bike so it doesn't really matter wtf it looks like but the other looks great on my Roberts, i.e. it's invisible... You now no-thing! :P

ahaha well, I'm not saying people should change forks just to go threadless but if you come across a cool fork with a long steerer, like I did, why bother rethreading it and using an older more complicated HSet system when you can just use 'ahead'?

To be honest, I think you'd see just as much flex with a shim over the threads as you would with a quill to ahead converter.

^I'd say it has nothing to do with threading or no threading. its the stem that flexes. imo.

and depending on type of quill stem it flexes a lot. Quite a surprising amount if going from a few years use of an ahead stem to a quill.

I am currently using all three options (Quill, Ahead, Adaptor) on various bikes.

Quill stems are definately more "flexy", but on older steel frames they simply look so much better than anything else.

The adaptors are good, IMO. They need to be set up right (in terms of matching clamping area height to the stem) to get the invisible look noted above. They do eliminate the major source of flex in a quill stem.

Back to the original question, I personally would not clamp on to the threaded part of the forks, with or without a shim. I would use an adaptor

http://www.probikekit.com/display.php?code=A1123