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One question though, I didn't think it was possible to overtighten a lockring, I thought the point is for it to be as tight as possible (at least from the threads I read here). If so then clearly it was a bit fucked too, I just took it over the edge.
it's possible to overtighten anything. it would normally be fine (i.e. you haven't been subjecting the poor thing to being loose for so long) just tightening up by hand.
you can always buy a rear brake.
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You have to be massive, or using soft alloyed hubs to strip threads by tightening. It's usually when you try to reuse parts that are already buggered and the whole lot just gives up.
In honesty, if you use cheaper lockrings you'll end up stripping threads (being a heavier fellow I can attest to this). You don't have to spend tons but buy something sturdy. I've broken two and bent one lockring in the last couple of months, solely because I was cash strapped and went cheap. In the long run it was pointless!
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Personally I used rotafix method for the sprocket, as I had no chainwhip, and then used an andel lockring with a pretty ancient lock ring tool, I assume lockrings can strip threads in the same way a sprocket would if over tightened.
This video was pretty useful in getting a gauge on how much force was needed.
YouTube- Shiftless Bastards Complete Fixed Gear Build pt. 5 Wheels, Cog, Lockring and Chain
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Probably the hub/ lockring, I stripped the thread on my first fixed - crappy Langster wheelset.
Look on the bright side - you can now learn how to lace a wheel too, get a hub and do it tonight!
This is excellent... http://www.lfgss.com/thread41350.html
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I stripped the thread on my first fixed - crappy Langster wheelset.
Yep, guess what bike I have...
A langster.
Balki, I have no idea what hubs they are, but whatever shit ones come with the langster, they didn't even have sealed cartridge bearings.
I've been meaning to get a new wheel, so it's no big deal, though I wasn't planning to spend the cash on it at the moment.
So yeah, the question is whether to get a wheel made for me, or whether to go down the path of doing it all myself. I guess I've got this far, so it's the only logical step. Cheers for the link by the way.
I'm not going to have time to build a wheel today, nor do I have a shop near me, I'm not in London today, so I guess it will be freewheel for the marathon ride, then sort it next week.
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Get a freewheel tool from someone in here. Fuck shops.
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Sorry, I don't agree with your comments about Cycle Surgery. It all sounded fine for months and then you choose to neglect it further. If you overtighten a lockring on threads you've already trashed then obviously it's going to fail. Replace it and learn how to take care of your fixed drivechain so you don't do this again. A Shimano chainwhip and lockring tool is a must have in my opinion.
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Sorry, I don't agree with your comments about Cycle Surgery. It all sounded fine for months and then you choose to neglect it further.
Well yes, I just called them cunts for using the excuse that I was too heavy for it. I doubt I have the power of Chris Hoy, it seems to work fine for him. If they had done it properly in first place, or had been willing to replace dodgy parts, it wouldn't have ever been an issue. They only told me the thread was fine, but didn't want to show me.
But yes, as soon I as I chose to ignore it, it was my fault, I'm not disputing that.
If you overtighten a lockring on threads you've already trashed then obviously it's going to fail. Replace it and learn how to take care of your fixed drivechain so you don't do this again.
That's the plan ;)
A Shimano chainwhip and lockring tool is a must have in my opinion.
Which is what I bought
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i have a couple of questions about threaded hubs while your on the subject (i didnt want to start a new thread for it)
ive been thinking about suicide hubs, and how to make them not so suicidal
me being a tight ass, like to reuse parts and just like to solve problems has had me thinking about this for some time, ive come up with a idea about how to over come the problems of running a suicide hub
one way i was thinking is to go to a fasteners and fixing warehouse and see if they have a big enough internal toothed lock washer, i was thinking 2 or 3 tooth lock washers so i dont take away to much material from the hub, the problems i can think of is the teeth on the washer would have to fit very snug in the slots cut out of the hub because if i tighten the lock-ring (shimano bb lock-ring fits right on)to tight the 2 halves could squash together and strip the threads, and the teeth would have to be long enough to go through the hub so i could file them flush with the slots inside of the hub
the slots would only be on the very edge of the threads (just wide enough to get the whole lock-ring on) and i would have to have a spacer between to cog and lock-ring
its a cup and cone type hub so i would need to get some rubber cup and cone seals to stop dirt getting in as its just has a dust seal at the moment
has any one ever done anything remotely similar to this
i will give it a go when i have some spare time(or when i can be bothered tbh) but im just looking for some feed back other ideas and input -
Had been thinking of taking the piss but most of my mechincal knowledge comes from when things have become fucked up because of my lack of knowledge, the problem has then arise and I have had to learn to fix it.
It's a fucker when things go wrong but the knowledge that you can fix it in future is so valuable it will generally pay for itself in due time.
I know nothing about suicide hubs preferring to have a bike that is mechanically sound, where I am the limiting factor rather than the bikes mechanical limits.
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Urgh, I hate freewheel so fucking much, I have to get a new hub asap.
I just cycled back to London, and it felt so wrong. It took me about 10 minutes to get over the instinctive resistance to coasting, but I hate the fact I can't just let the pedals push my legs, hardly applying any pressure, but keeping the same speed, instead just accelerating and decelerating, and ending up doing a sort of half coast where I pedal slower than the wheel, but not coasting either. Also I felt a complete lack of control, which just ended up with me going slower.
Once I get my new hub I am never riding freewheel again if I can avoid it.
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if you get a new hub, get a double fixed, as if you fuck one thread it is still usable, and you can put a freewheel on the cog threads anyway.
Yeah, I was thinking the same thing. I'm still not sure about how much I should tighten the lockring, after today, so a double fixed gives me more security.
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Yeah, I was thinking the same thing. I'm still not sure about how much I should tighten the lockring, after today, so a double fixed gives me more security.
basically, very tight. i highly doubt you'll be able to strip it by hand if the threads are fine. just make sure the threads of cog, hub and lockring are clean, then grease them all, then carefully thread on ensuring that you don't cross thread (should feel easy to turn, not difficult) do it finger tight, then either rotafix or chain whip the cog on (be careful with rotafix as it exterts more force) and do the same with the lockring but with a lockring tool..
Balki
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About
First attempt at mechanics, went pretty badly...
Posted by
@H-Bomb
So, I finally decided to learn about fixing problems on my bike myself, rather than wasting money at shops. It didn't go so well...
First the back story:
I bought my bike a year ago at cycle surgery.
After a couple of months I noticed some play on the sprocket/lockring, if I accelerated hard or skidded hard, it would jump back and forth.
It got worse and worse, until I took it back to the shop.
They said "don't worry your thread is fine, you are just to strong (polite way of saying heavy) for it" and tightened it as much as it should go.
That was fine for a while, and then it started to happen again, but whenever it did I just did the old standing on the pedals trick to tighten it and it was fine again for a few weeks.
I've kept doing that for a year. Bad idea I know...
Recently I noticed a rattling noise from my rear wheel (thanks to sumo for bringing it to my attention, I had just ignored it). It got worse and worse, and with help from reeen we worked out it was the bearings, as the wheel had some play on it, from side to side.
So yesterday I went out and bought a lockring tool/chainwhip, some cone spanners and grease.
Today I took off the sprocket and lockring, and took a look at the bearings. I re-greased the bearings, and tightened it up. That was fine.
The problems came with the sprocket and lockring. I could see that the thread on the hub under the sprocket was as good as gone, and the lockring had been so loose I could almost take it off without the tool, and there had been no grease on it at all.
I wanted to put them back on, just so that it would work until I could check if there was a fixed thread under the freewheel on my flip-flop hub, and if not, get a new wheel built (I've been thinking about that anyway).
I got the sprocket on, though without much of a thread it was quite hard to get tight, but I did it. I then got the lockring on, and it was pretty damn tight, but I could still get it slightly tighter. I was putting so much force on it, that it finally slipped, and fucked that thread too. Now my fixed is entirely fucked...
So cycle surgery are cunts, I'm an idiot for ignoring it, and now I have to ride SS front brake only, which makes me hate myself on so many levels, at least until I can get a new wheel, or get to a bike shop for them to take the freewheel off and check what thread is underneath it.
At least the noise and play on the bearings has gone, so that's one success.
I'm still glad I did it, I've now got the tools, and I've learnt what to do, but it's annoying, especially with the marathon ride tomorrow.
One question though, I didn't think it was possible to overtighten a lockring, I thought the point is for it to be as tight as possible (at least from the threads I read here). If so then clearly it was a bit fucked too, I just took it over the edge.