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• #2
there is a recent thread on facing the BB - retro di corsa will do it for you for a little less than 15. He is located in the heart of London.
... and is a very nice man.
... a very, very nice man. -
• #3
I've just had a glimpse at this product, I don't see where it needs to be beveled, I think it would also be less critical to face the BB shell as the BB screws to itself so must keep itself square...
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• #4
Why do you want a threadless BB, stripped threads?
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• #5
Beveling bb shells is refered to as chamfering and was usually done for MAVIC bbs.
Does yours really require this?
It needs a quite a special tool.
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• #6
I have no idea if it requires this, but I've heard (from edscoble I think) that it does. Seems to make sense. The BB will be able to 'bite' more into the BB shell if it's chamfered. Facing to get as much surface area between the BB and the shell as possible, although perhaps it isn't necessary.
Yeah the threads are fucked completely. Courtesy of LBS forcing in a 24tpi BB into a Raleigh 26tpi shell, even though I asked them if they were sure the threading was right... I'd have it up with them, but I live in York and I got it done in Essex. Plus it was about three years ago and I have lost the receipt.
And yes I do know there's a recent thread on facing BBs. But it didn't mention chamfering and I didn't want to threadjack. I reckon I could do it myself with a bevel tool, some engineer's blue and my mate's pillar drill. I've done more complicated metalwork in my time anyway!
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• #7
You know what, I'd just wind it in and see how it sits, that seems to be what it's designed to do...
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• #8
^ The main reason I wanted it to sit so securely is that I don't want to be taking off my cranks every month to tighten it, because it would bugger the cranks.
But looking at it closer, it can take a notched BB wrench as well as a pin-type so I won't need to remove the cranks to tighten it.
Bit of a waste of a thread really! Soz
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• #9
Dob of threadlock then...
Jobs a good 'un.
I'm planning on fitting a threadless Velo Orange Grand Cru (unless someone can recommend a better (cheaper but still works) threadless BB) to my Raleigh - I imagine facing the BB is very important for this, yes? And also bevelling the face at 45 degrees? Does the bevel go all the way across the face or only a certain distance? I was thinking of bevelling it about 3/4 leaving around 1mm of the face flat.
And also, how much do people usually pay for BB facing? I've been quoted £15, but this is a bit of a beater so I don't want to pay more than I need to. The only reason I've decided to keep it is because I want to build up my nice Coventry Eagle frame as a tourer.
I plan on doing the bevelling myself btw - I've done a lot of metalwork and I've got all the right tools to do it so no money spent there.