-
• #2
Go to Condor, they have Sugino crank for cheap (about £65) january sales.
-
• #3
hubs are good IMHO
-
• #4
I'd recommend spokes
-
• #5
Go to Condor, they have Sugino crank for cheap (about £65) january sales.
cheers thats not too far from my work..
-
• #6
Spokes...
32 x 281mm. On the edd calculator is 3 crosses mean the number of times a spoke crosses another one? This is what i have on my current wheel...
If the nearest stock size is 286mm then will the 5mm sit OK in the rim as its a Deep v or will this be a problem? Am thinking DT triple butted alpine 3 but the sizes are limited. Would 282 mm be perfect or do I need more room/allowance to play with?
Cheers
-
• #7
[QUOTE=weazlepopper;1133554]....if you have a moment i'd like to hear your advice.
I'm after a track crank with a 1/8 44t chainring. 165mm pref but 170mm OK. I'm thinking this one: http://www.italian-solutions.co.uk/product.php?productid=161599
Its rubbish - I have a set without the writing (42T) which is much better - yours for £50 (no logo = lighter = faster). Seriously tho they'er perfectly good, I like mine (buy mine).
...new back wheel. Black Deep-V with no braking surface and a single sided fixed hub...spend about £100 but if this isn't realistic I can up it a bit...
Looking for something strong and ***lightish ***for the price...
[/QUOTE]A couple of things;
- deep-V = heavier (not that weigh is the b or end all)
- do you want black spokes? They cost double
- on-one hubs are good... not really sure its ever worth paying more unless your after the topend
- deep-V = heavier (not that weigh is the b or end all)
-
• #8
Spokes...
32 x 281mm. On the edd calculator is 3 crosses mean the number of times a spoke crosses another one? This is what i have on my current wheel...
If the nearest stock size is 286mm then will the 5mm sit OK in the rim as its a Deep v or will this be a problem? Am thinking DT triple butted alpine 3 but the sizes are limited. Would 282 mm be perfect or do I need more room/allowance to play with?
Cheers
You really want the closest (within 2mm) spoke to the calculators recomendation. The problem is that altho there will be room for the spoke to poke up as it were, there won't be enough of the threads bitting together.
But, you can use longer nipples and *shorter *spokes to offset this.
If you want to keep costs down buy the ACI double butted from cyclebasket... obviously I don't know what type of riding you do / your weight but TBH I'd be supprised if you'd have a problem with them. I'm 12-13 st and commute daily though london's potholes on them laced 3x 32H without any problems.
-
• #9
You really want the closest (within 2mm) spoke to the calculators recomendation. The problem is that altho there will be room for the spoke to poke up as it were, there won't be enough of the threads bitting together.
But, you can use longer nipples and *shorter *spokes to offset this.
If you want to keep costs down buy the ACI double butted from cyclebasket... obviously I don't know what type of riding you do / your weight but TBH I'd be supprised if you'd have a problem with them. I'm 12-13 st and commute daily though london's potholes on them laced 3x 32H without any problems.
Cheers, they look good but wouldn't fit if i went for the deep Vs as they come in limited sizes?
With the edd calculator, if that exact spoke length to reach the rim? If I add on 5mm to a nipple can I take it off the spoke length?
I'm aiming for a really strong wheel that I can bash around. Hoping that high flange and Deep Vs with give the strongest combination. Weight isn't such an issue as it's just an 80s Motobecane mid range frame and pretty tonk. Mainly commuting but want to be care-free!
-
• #10
deep v's are not the strongest wheel by a long shot.
-
• #11
but for commuting, you don't need the strongest wheel.
-
• #12
but for commuting, you don't need the strongest wheel.
I'm not saying there aren't ppl out there who haven't destroyed their wheels, but really how many ppl actualy do?...and if so what were the wheels and what caused them to break?
OP how much do you weigh?
I used to give my hybrid a good work out, on and off curbs, london potholes etc. for over 2 years, Alex rims on basic shimano hubs. The front went out of true (it was radial), it got trued, nothing broke.
-
• #13
you gonna offer any alternatives then nacho libre?
Deep V + Planet X would be good.
Rigida DP18 + Planet X would be even cheaper and just as good.
-
• #14
Im about 13st. Currently got Ridiga Chrisna rims on cheapo ambrosio hubs. Not had a single wobble on the rims and I ride like a binge drinking toddler. Kind of liking the reflective deep vs as my bike is covered in the black reflective tape and i want to be seen. Think I dont want a machined surface though (vanity)
I ride some bumpy trails too as well as commuting. Drop of some stairs occasionally
-
• #15
Maybe strip them, invest in a goldtec rear and home re-spray the rim?
Do a search and you'll find a thread on someone re-spraying their rim - PM them to ask how long it held up for.
-
• #16
Chrinas are a strong touring rim.
Do you ride brakeless? if not you will get a brake surface on the front eventually.
-
• #17
The idea is to get a new wheel for this bike and put the current one on a polo bike (i need a city hobby as london appears to be lacking in mountains).
I have an emergency front brake, attempting to ride brakeless but value my teeth/life.
-
• #18
you gonna offer any alternatives then nacho libre?
Deep V + Planet X would be good.
Rigida DP18 + Planet X would be even cheaper and just as good.
well i didn't read that he only wanted them for commuting so didn't feel the need to offer another choice, but my recommendations for strongest 700c wheel would be 48h goldtec's to rigida's sputniks or velocity chukka
-
• #19
Sounds like your current wheels don't need upgrading in my opinion, I've ridden my ambrosio rims every day almost for the best part of three years, I have replaced pretty much every spoke at some stage but never had a problem, if it's for aesthetics then that's fine but (to take the dogsballs line) if it's conversion then is it worth the cash?
What crankset are you using at the moment, and what gear do you want to run, if you are finding 44t is limiting your choice within your price range then why not think about getting a bigger cog? Unless you are planning on using it for polo then 48x20 is pretty spinny even for the biggest of hills!
I run 49x20 and at 64 inches is perfect for most applications for me, although sometimes going down greenwich park can be a bit jarring first thing in the morning.
-
• #20
well i didn't read that he only wanted them for commuting so didn't feel the need to offer another choice, but my recommendations for strongest 700c wheel would be 48h goldtec's to rigida's sputniks or velocity chukka
Over the £100 budget and anyone who says "strong and light" doesn't really know what they want anyway.
-
• #21
I'm currently running 42x17 which is about 66 GI with 28/700c. I was on 42x15 but thought this was too high for London as just moved over from france where i mainly rode my bike on a flatish 30km piste. Thinking I could cope with 70 GI now im a bit fitter and used to the journey. Hoping to move closer to work too so my round trip should drop from 25km to 10....maybe. I also dont want to break my knees so may end up going back to my old current ratio if they start hurting. just want to be faster..
I just invested in a 17t sproket hence trying to keep that and get a 44t chainring but I guess the sprket is the cheaper component so could think about changing that.
The crankset is off an 80s Peugeot triathlon bike and is branded 'custom'.
My bike rides pretty well but I'd like to upgrade in the future and have components I can take over.
Frame cost me €30 as a complete bike (pm me if you want o know some french markets where you can pick up hundreds of bikes for proper cheap!) and its had various bits and bobs added form my other projects.
-
• #22
I recommend that if you are thinking about it, go for the full circumcision.
Doing only half is a false economy.
Lets do the Time Warp againnnnnnnnn.
-
• #23
when I have my old conversion, it was those cheap mass produced bicycle, because of that, I only upgrade when necessary.
weazle, the best thing you can do is to simply only upgrade when necessary, the strength of the wheels is not just down to the choice of rims/hubs etc. but how well it's build, a cheap wheelset can last for ages if it's build properly.
-
• #24
+1 about the wheels.
stash the money somewhere and wait till you can afford to upgrade the lot, and money is better spent on a frame as components wear out quicker than frames.
-
• #25
Sounds like, why don't you go for a pre-built off the peg Halo Aerotrack wheel,
They get quite good reviews, i think they are about 90 quid from evans cycles, order online,
they look aesthetically very similar to deep v's and have no braking surface,
they look just the ticket for what you are after?
much cheaper than building a wheel no?
edit:
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/halo/aerotrack-wheel-rear-ec018530
not much stock at the moment, but im sure it wouldnt be hard to find someone with them.look moot
Ok so I've had a quick look about....if you have a moment i'd like to hear your advice.
I'm after a track crank with a 1/8 44t chainring. 165mm pref but 170mm OK. I'm thinking this one: http://www.italian-solutions.co.uk/product.php?productid=161599
Is it good for the money? I've got about £100 to spend. Is 44t going to limit my choices? there seems to be lots of min. 48t about...
I'm also in the market for a new back wheel. Black Deep-V with no braking surface and a single sided fixed hub. Are there any off the shelf like this or will I have to find someone to build it? Want to spend about £100 but if this isn't realistic I can up it a bit...
Looking for something strong and lightish for the price
I'm thinking something like this for the build:
Hubs On One black large flange http://www.on-one-shop.co.uk/acatalog/info_HUOOLFTH32RBK.html
Rims ELVS velocity deep V - Anyone know if BLB are the only stockists in london?
Spokes? no idea...
Cheers....