Replacing cartridge bearing

In the process of overhauling my hubs due to a cracked locknut I have detected a grind in one of the cartridge bearings in my rear condor uno:

http://road.cc/content/image/10730-condor-uno-hub.

I am fairly sure that I can replace this, but google has suprised me with the cost of replacements. Could anyone recommend a supplier for replacements? or offer sage advice for the first time I try and do this!

Thanks!

Oh yeah....is there much scope for incorrectly sizing the inners and outers of the bearing or can it be done with a ruler? i.e no fractions of millimetres here right?

simplybearings

Yup, you'll prolly be able to tell the bearing supplier what you want by looking very carefully at the old bearings when you've got them out- there is usually a code number on the bearing somewhere- for example we seem to see loads of 6001- there may be a letter code after the numbers (RS, c3, L8 on some random bearings I have here) but these relate to the service conditions or the type and number of seals - google the bearing mnfr sites -SKF for e.g. and you'll see what I mean.

Numbers may be on the steel of the outer race and/or or the steel or rubber seals on the side. Once you have the bearing code, all should be fairly straightforward- I tend to get a decent but not madly expensive branded bearing- so SKF for example.
Good luck,
Scherrit.

thanks very much!

Right, I am failing miserably here.
One of the lock nuts appears to be very tightly screwed up against the hub and i am having a lot of difficulty getting it off, how should i be going about trying to remove this locknut?

also:

once the nuts have been removed leaving just the axle clear through to the bearings what are the most sensible options for bearing removal? should i be able to tap one end of the axle and push the bearing out on the opposite side? This is beginning to irritate me!
cheers!

edit:

Similar threads and UTFS have shed a little more light on bearing removal (i.e get the appropraite tool!) but i'm still at a loss as to how to remove the first bearing and remove the last locknut!

Think i have to step away from it now before i do something that is only going to make it worse or break something!

If these hubs have a conventional axle then you don't need a bearing removal tool. The bearing inner race sits on a machined surface of the axle that has a step which butts against the side of the inner race and so will drive the bearing out when tapped through. Both sets of locknuts will need to be removed to do this as once one bearing is knocked out the axle then needs replacing in the hub to remove the other bearing. Gentle but firm taps with a plastic/rubber mallet are enough - you shouldn't need to really hammer unless there's corrosion.

As for undoing the locknuts, assuming you have the right cone spanners then at least try an overnight soak with WD40/PlusGas or similar, next you could try heating the nuts using one of those cooking gas torches, being very careful to only heat the nut (you'd have to really overdo it to damage the hub). And if that all fails then cutting off is the last resort. A dremel with cutting discs good!!!! Or take it to Condor to undo - would they charge for that?

See my thread for address of cheapest ceramic bearings if you want to go that far but they also stock conventional SKF bearings over the counter too. They will likely be a 6001 type bearing (6001 refers to the size 12 x 8 x 28 - 12 being the bore, 8 being depth and 28 is diameter. 6000 is 10 x 8 x 26 and 6002 Is 15 x 9 x 32 - so it should be easy enough to identify what you have. If both sides are sealed you want a 2RS or if sealed on one side only an RS - ie; 6001 2RS or 6001 RS etc

http://www.londonfgss.com/thread35168.html

thanks again for the advice.
I have managed to get bearings (6000) at my LBS.
fingers crossed i can get the locknut off.

BUMP

Anyone else tried this?

I'm about to have a pop at a set of Ambrosio (e.g. generic) track hubs. The bearings are knackered, the nuts are rusty but the wheels and the hub shells are hot to trot. there's no way I'm binning them for want of a set of sealed bearings!

Just did a set of bearings for Goldtecs. It was really easy. Whatchoo need to know?

Just wondered how easy it was, really. What size bearings, were they standard, different front and back, etc...
It's odd, it just never occured to me to change them! I just replaced the wheelset, lobbed the old wheels in the back of the garage, and then it just dawned on me to sort them out!

Goldtecs - from the Goldtec website so fit was not an issue. Everything else is really basic mechanics. Did them Murts stylee - wif a mallet.

http://www.lfgss.com/thread3579.html

http://www.bikeradar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=16392044

The BR link has some other experiences with replacements. It is very "Slot A into Tab A"* kind of stuff.

*not a euph.

Good searchwork, matey! Pot of tea and a peruse, methinks...

I found a good way of seating the new bearings without resorting to a mallet:

Get two big washers that fit over the axle and reach the outside of the bearing casing (you don't want to be pressing on the inside part) and just tighten the bearings into place with track nuts.

I found a good way of seating the new bearings without resorting to a mallet:

Get two big washers that fit over the axle and reach the outside of the bearing casing (you don't want to be pressing on the inside part) and just tighten the bearings into place with track nuts.

Now that is a top tip!

good one!

just supposing hypothetically you were a complete idiot and got carried away hammering in the bearings to actually put the axle back in - what would you do?

Insert a flat head screwdriver through one bearing and rest the tip on the other bearing's outer race (inside the hub), tap gently, moving round the bearing to keep it even.

Thinking about it, you might not be able to get to the outside race from the inside of the hub, in which case you'll just have to sacrifice one of the bearings. I'm sure it'll be useable after knocking it out with the inner race, but for about £2.50 you might as well replace it with a nice new one.

thanks. i've been trying that with the screwdriver, but not able to get much purchase on the cartridge.

i was thinking about just smashing the bearing and buying a new one, but i'm not sure that wouldn't still leave the race stuck inside

Smashing the bearing could damage the bush it's sitting in, meaning you'd need a new hub as well. If you're in London I know a place that could probably remove it. If not, google an engineer close to you and give them a phone, they might be able to help.

You could try using a masonry anchor, M10 probably, put it in, tighten it up and yank.

i made an expander bolt by screwing a nut onto a quick release skewer which gave me the purchase to hammer it out from inside pretty easily. in case anyone else is so stupid or has a cartridge that doesn't come out with the axle.

Been in to the maintenance department at work this morning - they've ordered me ten sets of 6000-2RS 10x26x8mm bearings on the company account! The managers have been giving them tonnes of shit recently so they're fairy free and easy with the orders as revenge for the hassle.

Win!

Ta for all the good advice, people. I'll be tackling this task next week, I'll keep you all posted!

For pressing bearings in without a bearing press, some threaded rod and a carefully chosen socket will usually give you a fair home made press. Nice thought on extractors, tho' Masonary anchor and a home made slide hammer FTW!

These guys in Mile End do 6000-2RS for about £2.50 a pop. Better to confirm a price on the phone though, it seems to be up to the guy at the desk how much they charge. Don't wanna be taken for a mug.

I've got my bearings, got my washers, got a mallet, got a pot of tea.

I'm going in!