Threadlock / locktite and grease

When using threadlock on things (lockrings, italian bb's, whatever else) should you also use grease at the same time? I'm just wondering and I want to threadlock some parts but unsure if you replace the grease with threadlock or use both at the same time? It seems that just using threadlock is asking for things to seize up?

I don't grease, just threadlock.

Correct. No grease dude.

so that means things are going on dry? awright.

Thread lock acts as a lubricant while assembling, it also provides anti-corrosion protection when cured. Grease will simply stop it working as designed. For most parts on a bike it should not however be necessary [IMHO]- if the parts are properly prepared and assembled, you should not need threadlock and it can make dis-assembly a nightmare in some cases. I've had the joy of removing 3-piece BBs that have been threadlocked and it ain't fun. The exception is Campagnolo outboard bearing cups (used on later 10spd and 11spd cranks). Here Campagnolo virtually insist you use it (and a specific grade too), BUT you are not supposed to spanner up the cups, just hand tight. It allows correct alignment of the two cups during curing of the threadlock. If your Italian RH BB cup or bearing is working loose, then either the BB threads were not prepped properly or you didn't do it up tight enough or both.

Threadlock IS handy for any odd small nuts and screws where you can't get a locknut on or don't have one handy, and for extra safety on brake calliper retaining nuts etc.

thanks for that retro, hmm, i may have made a mistake then, i put my miche primato bb in tight (used a 14" long spanner) and 243 loctite. I used threadlock as I had read about miche bb's unscrewing. oh well, i guess its on now.

oh well, i guess its on now.

and long shall it remain so :)

haha, as you seem knowledgeable, i put the cranks on and it said in the handbook to NOT grease the bb spindle - i have always done this with square taper cranks - so i didnt - just read sheldon and it says that you SHOULD grease the bb spindle. they are on now nice and tight with no grease - should i just leave them?

I wouldn't bother removing them just to grease them. If they're on, they're on. Unless you go to the bother of thoroughly cleaning everything with solvent before assembly chances are there's a hint of grease somewhere anyway. If you do use grease on assembly it should only be a smidge in any case. Fear not.

Yes. I'd stick with what you've done regarding the tapers (i.e. not greased). It's a big debate that I can't be bothered to participate in, but to my simple mind I don't see how a taper fit can fit properly if there's a layer of grease in there as well. It's not a bad idea to follow the manufacturer's instructions either.

Yes. I'd stick with what you've done regarding the tapers (i.e. not greased). It's a big debate that I can't be bothered to participate in, but to my simple mind I don't see how a taper fit can fit properly if there's a layer of grease in there as well. It's not a bad idea to follow the manufacturer's instructions either.

you have an *interesting *point about the grease there. I believe the debate is about the relationship between installation torque and how high up the spindle the crank arm will sit, as in the greasy case the friction between the tapers will be reduced.

I grease mine purely so they come off easier.

geasing the threads on bolts and the like will actually help stop them becoming loose in some situations.

i greased the bolt for the crank. got myself a torque wrench to do it up properly (hadn't ridden them except for about 200m), 35Nm is bloody tight! no way you could get that tight with a hand tool - i was worried i was about to strip the threads, then came the click.