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• #2
Well, you're halfway there having already got the lockring off, but tbh the cost of the paint you're going to use will be more than the finished value of the frame. Get the cotter pins out first, because you may find that takes so much time and effort that you'll give up and throw the whole thing in a skip. After that, the non-drive side cup uncrews anticlockwise and the drive side unscrews clockwise. Both will be less likely to get fucked up if you clamp the flats of the cup in a bench vice and turn the frame around them.
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• #3
Both will be less likely to get fucked up if you clamp the flats of the cup in a bench vice and turn the frame around them.
kind of fucked mine up :( do it tightly!
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• #4
do you think i should just get a new frame? Or is masking around to respray an option?
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• #5
DO i need to removed the cranks, can i twist them in opposite ways to remove it?
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• #6
ok go one crank off, can i take out the bb with out getting the other one off, I've managed to get the one that isn't the drive side off, the other one is proving difficult!
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• #7
you will need to buy new cotter pins to put them back on as the old ones will be pumped, they are £1 each from your LBS - you will need to hammer them in (unless you have a vintage cotter press) quite well, then ride around the street for a bit skidding and the likes because they will become loose again after initial installation - then hammer them down again and tighten the bolt
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• #8
I also had the same problem with the drive side cup - I just left it in and resprayed
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• #9
can i take out the bb with out getting the other one off
No
the other one is proving difficult!
I thought it might. You need one of these
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• #10
or for removal, then just
for installation -
• #11
done i can't get the other cotter out, and i'm massively fcuking up the cotter pin, might have to drill it, will i need a pillar drill or can it be done with a hand drill?
I've can borrow a dewalt one so it's pretty beefy will this get through the pin?
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• #12
Blowtorch the crank to expand it, then smash it hard. Should pop out.
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• #13
unfortunately i dont have a blow torch, but will drilling work?
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• #14
We used to drill them out with a hand drill in the olden days; be prepared for a long night's work as it's surprising how little remnant metal will continue to hold the crank to the axle with great tenacity.
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• #15
As a general rule.
If you get your hammer on the cotter pin and go tappety tappety tap you will ruin the cotter pin and it won't budge
If you get your hammer on the cotter pin and smash the living fuck out of it it will not be damaged and will come out.
And if you pop the frame on your shoulder and head to your LBS they will do the job for you for not much money. If that LBS is Lock 7 you can have cake and tea while you are waiting.
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• #16
even if i have fcuked the cotter pin already, will they take it out?
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• #17
I don't see why it should be a problem for them. Generally speaking it helps to give you a bigger target for your hammer (and punch) to leave the nut on - not done up tight of course, just on enough. That way you also tend to mash the nut not the threads - and it can be hacksawed off if you do loosen the cotter pin and can't undo the nut.
I want to remove the bottom bracket so I can repaint the frame, i know i need to bang out the cotter pins, but I dont know how to remove the bottom bracket.
I'm tempted to get a lot of masking fluid and spray around the cranks and chainset, is this a really bad idea
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