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• #2
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• #3
single speed conversion kit
a few companies make a versionthat above looks very nice and colourful world champ stripes !
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• #4
you can also go down to lbs and ask for cassette spacers, same job, infinitely cheaper.
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• #5
or smash up old cassettes and use the spacers inside which is what cassette spacers are
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• #6
youl need two cassetes to have enough spacers.
ive done a couple of these conversions and ive found that the ramped tooths on cassette sprockets somtimes work fine, othertimes they derail the chain very easily while under heavy load. its a bit hit and miss. i think guesset sprockets run at about £5 so it might be easier to just get one of those if your short on moneys.
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• #7
yeah I'm about to do the same and from what I understand its just buy a ss sprocket and then just use spacers to get the chainline staight... done.
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• #8
This is how mine is running at the moment. Used the spacers from a couple of old cassettes and the locking cog off one of them (shimano type cassette).
Really like the multi-coloured set though. -
• #9
youl need two cassetes to have enough spacers.
ive done a couple of these conversions and ive found that the ramped tooths on cassette sprockets somtimes work fine, othertimes they derail the chain very easily while under heavy load. its a bit hit and miss. i think guesset sprockets run at about £5 so it might be easier to just get one of those if your short on moneys.
Gusset sprockets are shite ... don't skimp and get yourself some decent sprockets from on-one or surly, they will last forever and there is no chain skip at all. Used to have skips all the time until I replaced with a decent sprocket (my chain tension is bang on).
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• #10
Shimano's BMX sprocket is another option. Three quid online.
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• #11
yeah ive always used surly, but ben was asking about using cassette spacers when the kits arnt very expensive so i assumed it was budget.
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• #12
i believe i have used the shimano ones previously on mtb and was fine.
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• #13
This looks good:
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product.asp?pf_id=18327&src=lfgssJust slots on to the freehub and you have a single-speed.
Needs a 3/32 "normal" chain though rather than a 1/8 track chain. But if you're keeping the existing chain you'll be fine.
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• #14
BTW, I don't go around forcing SJS stuff on you... just happened to notice in the stats that that product was one of the most clicked-through from the banner adverts.
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• #15
I have that one and have had no problems in 6 months of use.
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• #16
what is the necessary-ness of the "guides"? won't a 1/8" chain fit between them? seems a bit silly.
things have really rocketed in price, i have a non spring dmr one of these, only £20 a few years back http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/src/lfgss/product-Yess-Yess-ETR-B-Chain-Tensioner-19577.htm
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• #17
^
Stops possible chain fall off I think, DH bikes used to have chain devices that weren't dissimiliar on the front chain ring.
I think it is a bit excessive, but When ragging the bike hard from the lights my chain tensioner gives it up sometime and you can feel the whole thing go slack, though ** crosses fingers ** the chain has not come off yet.
I prefer the kits with lots of little spacers because it makes it a piece of piss to get the chainline bang on.
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• #18
dh bikes still do, ney? http://chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=11804
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• #19
The last time I seen a DH bike in the flesh was about 10 years ago.
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• #20
what is the necessary-ness of the "guides"? won't a 1/8" chain fit between them? seems a bit silly.
things have really rocketed in price, i have a non spring dmr one of these, only £20 a few years back http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/src/lfgss/product-Yess-Yess-ETR-B-Chain-Tensioner-19577.htm
Are comparing the same things?
DMR chain tensioners are still £20-ish... what you're looking at above is a Bottom Bracket based tensioner from a different company.
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• #21
Are comparing the same things?
DMR chain tensioners are still £20-ish... what you're looking at above is a Bottom Bracket based tensioner from a different company.
should have mentioned that the bottom bracket tensioner i have was made by dmr and £20. http://www.dmrbikes.com/?Section=products&pageType=item&category=3&CategoryName=Chain%20Devices&itemid=CDECR comme ca
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• #22
right
the sjs cycles one looks great. how do i get the cassette off. does the single speed conversion kit just screw on?
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• #23
I've just bought the DMR Simple Tension Seeker and single speed kit. Came with a 16T cog and all the spaces required to space out a 9spd cassette body. Can anyone help with what size chain ring I should run with a 16T cog? Not too many hills where I live.*[/U][U]
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• #25
I've just bought the DMR Simple Tension Seeker and single speed kit. Came with a 16T cog and all the spaces required to space out a 9spd cassette body. Can anyone help with what size chain ring I should run with a 16T cog? Not too many hills where I live.
Oh god, why did you get the DMR one? Wasnt for the looks was it? A friend of mine has had nothing but problems with his slipping and the bolt that fixes it in place at the back cannot be tightened at the head has been rounded off. I got a similar problem with my gusset setup (Which I think maybe lighter and in my opinion is better looking, but each to their own. I bodged it by sawing off a peice of an old 9mm wheel axle and using it to replace the bolt that went through the mech hanger with a bolt on the outside and one on the wheel side of the mech hanger.
And FYI Lucas I have never had a problem with gusset sprokets or chainrings, everyone has different experiences with different kit maybe you got unlucky.
If you have had gears before AfterWorkProject you can work out what chainring you want using simple maths......
If you know how many teeth where on the front and back on your prefered gear you can use that to work out the ratio and then use the ratio to find out how big you want the front ring to be.F= Number of teeth on front chainring
B = Number of teeth on back sproket
R = RatioF/B=R
F/R=B
BxR=FBut if you have nothing previous to go on....
personally I was running a 36t front with my 16t back and that gave me a ratio of 2.25 which was high enough to give me plenty of speed and none too shaby acceleration. I felt it was about perfect but because I have changed where I ride I have changed my rear cog to 18t giving me a ratio of 2.00 which is too low (if only a 17t rear cog was available, never mind Ill just mess about with the chain ring).And as I side note, half link chains are a must for single speed, increases your chances of getting perfect tension without having to use a tensioner and loads stronger.
what do i need for this. my girlfriend is sick of running it as it is. can i space out with what i have?