-
• #2
Over, over, under works for me
-
• #3
i hope the other way will work as well. its probably gonna need retruing after a short while.
is it me or are these h+son rims quite hard to get completely true?
-
• #4
sounds like you made things complicated for yourself. I had no problem with the H plus, still perfectly true after a year of 14 stone abuse.
-
• #5
yeah dude 3 cross is over over under. bad luck.
h+ can be a bit fiddly but they build into strong wheels.
-
• #6
yeah dude 3 cross is over over under. bad luck.
+1. Man, you must have had to wrestle with them to do over-under-over. But before you pull it apart and rebuild, inspect the bends and strains etc in the spokes. Use your judgement to decide whether you want to ride them. It might not be textbook, but it might be okay, I dunno. I mean look at snowflake or crows foot patterns - all kinds of weird but people run them okay.
-
• #7
As long as you didn't kink the spokes when bending them under you'll be fine.
I think its marginally less strong than crossing under the third. But I've been doing a similar thing (4x laced under the 3rd) for years on bmx wheels since it enhances the ability of the wheel to resist grind impacts and I've never had any troubles on wheels which are taking a damn sight more abuse.
-
• #8
haha, ask the plagiarist about this lacing technique.
-
• #9
Blimey, that's basket weaving.
-
• #10
is it me or are these h+son rims quite hard to get completely true?
I did one h+son 3 cross (over over under, as per Sheldon's instructions) and it got true really quick and easy.
-
• #11
Blimey, that's basket weaving.
:D
-
• #12
Blimey, that's basket weaving.
indeed. - actually it looks quite nice
-
• #13
You know you have gone wrong when your wheel comes out looking like a basket.
"Awh crap, why doesnt mine look anything like the one on the box!"
-
• #14
indeed. - actually it looks quite nice
It looks nice indeed and is called interlacing - congratulations. Straight from the textbook as well (Jobst Brandt):
Interlaced spokes permit opposing spokes to take up slack from each other during severe wheel loading and prevent them from completely losing tension. This prevents the nipples from unscrewing. The pressure interlaced spokes exert against each other allows a loaded spoke to return to its original tension with less shock.
I rode an interlaced rear wheel for two or three years on the road and found it was bouncy and comfortable and didn't come out of true at all. After said 2-3 years the spokes started breaking at the first bend/crossing where they sort of hug each other (where you've gone over instead of under). Replaced the spokes without interlacing, because it would've been such a pain trying to feed them through the fully tensioned wheel. All good again.If you haven't undone the pattern, I'd just go with it. In truing and tensioning I found that I needed to treat the interlaced spokes as one, because they seemed to tension together, if that makes sense. Change in one would immediately have an effect on the other.
-
• #15
should go under-under-over
and take a note that leading spokes of the wheel wheel should go under at the last cross
the wheel will work better that way -
• #16
Guys I'm a novice and thinking about building my first wheel soon. Its an old 27 1 1/4 weinmann vintage wheel with 36holes. I will be lacing it to a system ex 36h hub and probably dt swiss spokes. I will ask the bike store to calculate the spoke lenght for me. Does anyone have tips for a beginner. I checked some interesting tutorials on ebay- it seems easy to get the spokes into the holes correctly but truing is something else. All tips welcome
-
• #17
Go slowly.
1/8th turns of the nipples
-
• #18
If a wheel is laced properly the trueing bit just takes time and patience.
A trueing stand makes things much easier
-
• #19
or just flip your bike use your forks and brake as a truing stand
-
• #20
search google for "sheldon brown wheel building" and follow that, can't go wrong.
-
• #21
Thanks guys! I'll let you know how it went.
-
• #22
search google for "sheldon brown wheel building" and follow that, can't go wrong.
Sheldon advises that you allow yourself plenty of time to build the wheels, and not to expect to finish them in one session. This is the best advice anyone could give IMHO. There's no alchemy in building wheels, but getting everything nicely tensioned and tru can take time.
-
• #23
Sheldon advises that you allow yourself plenty of time to build the wheels, and not to expect to finish them in one session. This is the best advice anyone could give IMHO.
Repped.
Take plenty of time and when you find yourself getting frustrated, stop and don't go back to it until the next day.
-
• #24
i found sheldons diagrams confusing personally, i didnt give it much time as i found a you-tube video i liked a lot better, i've posted it somewhere else on here but cant find it at the moment
-
• #25
don't forget the real essentials:
Tea
Beer
More Tea
More Beer
Shitty TV in the background.
Stress ball
did a rear (h+son) wheel today with the 3 cross pattern lacing the second set of spokes over-under-over. this was a bit hard to do and the truing was more difficult than it use to be plus some creaking noises.
afterwards i checked my shop-build wheel to find that it was made over-over-under...
now, did i do it all wrong? any experiences?
thanks