3/32" vs. 1/8" riding fixed

I'm looking at getting a Surly Steamroller and am currently weighing up buying the complete bike vs. getting the FF and getting something built up. At the moment I'm leaning towards the complete bike as I'd be happy with the hubs, bb, headset, bars and brake that come as stock. the rims aren't great but will be fine until London kills them.

The complete bike comes with a 3/32" drivetrain. at the moment i'm using a 1/8" set up on my conversion (miche crank/chain ring, EAI sproket / izumi chain) and so when I test rode the surly the other day the chain looked really thin and it got me thinking.

what difference does it make? is 1/8" stronger and therefore better for riding fixed? I assume there is nothing wrong with 3/32" or surly wouldn't supply their bikes with it, but I really don't want to suffer and epic fail and end up using my face as a brake if the chain snaps. does each have it's own advantages and draw backs?

I know changing the sproket and chain will be no problem, and I am going to check if you can get a replacement chainring to fit on the andel cranks (I'm sure you must be able to - the andel cranks seem pretty good btw). but do I need to? I really don't know what difference it makes, but know that 1/8" is standard for track riding and as that is what I'm running at the moment I don't want to downgrade,if it is a downgrade.

Thanks.

single speed or fixed is no no to have a 3/32 chain, an 1/8th is THE only one to have- it doesn't have the sideways flex the 3/32 has to have on geared bike: its not called derailure chainfor nothing,its capable of being derailed off one sprocket onto another.

Why maufacturers fit 3/32 chains on single speed I do not know, if it unships and you have an accident you could claim for the damage- and on a fixed bike when the chain comes off it can be ghastly, yup I had a close up view of it.

1/8th chain on 3/32 front or rear, and 3/32 front and rear too- I've never found a problem in too many years to mention. Others swear by entirely by 1/8th only. I do have both chainrings and sprockets in both sizes and take precisely no notice.

If you were a pro track rider you'd get what you were given, and have to get on with it, ie JFDI

I have no doubt others will disagree.............

You can get 3/32 chains designed for single chainrings.

Having said that, I use 8-speed 3/32 chains on my singlespeed MTBs offroad and I've never once lost the chain due to anything other than it being too slack (and that was when I used to use 1/8 chain). 3/32 chain is absolutely fine on a fixed, as long as the chainring and cog are designed for single speed use (ie, they have long unramped teeth).

Buy the complete Steamroller, enjoy it, replace parts when they wear out.

Oh, and read this for Surly's take on singlespeed drivetrains (most of the comments apply equally to fixed): http://www.surlybikes.com/spew3.html

it's total bullshit to suggest that a 3/32" chain isn't suitable for a single speed or fixed gear.

if you're starting from scratch then a 1/8" is probably preferable just because of compatibility and, dare i say, looks, but a 3/32" is undoubtedly fine. and lighter. and quieter usually.

**it's total bullshit to suggest that a 3/32" chain isn't suitable for a single speed or fixed gear. **

if you're starting from scratch then a 1/8" is probably preferable just because of compatibility and, dare i say, looks, but a 3/32" is undoubtedly fine. and lighter. and quieter usually.

+1, just get a ss specific 3/32 chain and it will be fine. But yeah if you are building it from scratch might as well go 1/8 just because.

single speed or fixed is no no to have a 3/32 chain, an 1/8th is THE only one to have- it doesn't have the sideways flex the 3/32 has to have on geared bike: its not called derailure chainfor nothing,its capable of being derailed off one sprocket onto another.

3/32" chains do not supernaturally leap off chainrings. Chainline and tension are much, much more important than width.

it's total bullshit to suggest that a 3/32" chain isn't suitable for a single speed or fixed gear.

if you're starting from scratch then a 1/8" is probably preferable just because of compatibility and, dare i say, looks, but a 3/32" is undoubtedly fine. and lighter. and quieter usually.

+1. 3/32" pitch chains can deal with less precise chainlines better, too.

Super is always right.

a chain is a chain right ?

with a spot on chainline, not much difference; cheap or expensive, 1/8" or 3/32", single speed or 8 speed.

however i do find that 1/8th sprockets last longer than 3/32".

other than weight, and possibly less noise, its whatever really.

1/8" is faster. Fact!

3/32" on fixed snappy snappy

1/8" enough to no snappy snappy

you will get more sex if you use 1/8" chain. fact.

1/32 more, to be exact

1/32 more, to be exact

3.125% more to be even more exact.

1/8" prevents Aids. Fact!

3/32 is fine for single speed, hell i ran it on my race bmx for 10 years, should be no problem using it on a fixed gear.as long as you keep an eye on the chain.

and you can always just get the shop to put a 1/8th chain on 3/32 componants.

you will get more sex if you use 1/8" chain. fact.

1/8" prevents Aids. Fact!

I've never heard a better argument for anything.

Thanks for the comments, I spoke to the lovely people in Brixton yesterday and they're going to do the old switchero on a few bits off the standard bike. another example of their awesomeness. all that will leave to upgrade down the line is the rims.

now to finally get the mrs to agree to another bike. that is my Sunday task.

3.125% more to be even more exact.

I think you'll find that's no more exact, and in any case, fractions are always more exact =P

Apologies for the math pedantry.

I've always run 7/64" chains. Any Evans will stock them.

π/32 ftw!

I use 3/32 KMC chains from Parker International @ £5 a pop.
Use them on MTB, SS, and fixed. Never had a chain jump/snap/twist/break.
3/32 is forgiving of an imperfect chain line, is cheape, quieter, and lighter.

....l. .i.

According to Sheldon Brown a 3/32" chain would be better as it is lighter and more forgiving (and compatible with standard road chainrings), and most would agree that a 1/8" drivechain should last longer. There are, in fact, arguments for each being the stronger set-up. Remember in the direction the chain is in torsion, the thickness of the plates are the same.

1/8" = Strong because forces are spread over a thicker chain.
3/32" = The increase in lateral flex results in less stress.

I use 1/8" for:
1) Compatibility with high end track components (although most things can be sourced in 3/32" these days);
2) I built up my bike from scratch so planned for perfect chainline (down to listed sprocket widths to 0.1mm, and then fecked it up anyway); and
3) 1/8" set-ups look more hardcore.

So the only real factors worth considering are the usual - weight vs longevity

Chains are for girls.

Hippy's bike

Chains are for girls.

Spot on.
A fair few years ago I met a girl who absolutly loved chains.

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