Rusty nuts and penetrating oil

Thought the following might be useful for some of the more mechanically minded on here:

This information comes from another group and, as yet, I am unable to
find the article to read it carefully. I can vouch for Kroil as seeming
superior for the task. Peoria based Caterpiller uses it exclusively and
how I learned of it.

Machinist's Workshop magazine tested penetrants for break out torque on
rusted nuts. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular
penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut
from a "scientifically rusted" environment. The results are as follows:

Penetrating oil..... Average load
None ............
......516 pounds
WD-40 .................238 pounds
PB Blaster ............214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50-50 automatic
transmission fluid and acetone.

Great info mate - thanks for sharing that.

this is awesome information

Cool! I've always used Duck Oil or PlusGas myself and found them better than WD40.

Yup, +1 for Plus Gas every time , easily available here and not on the test! Also in aerosol, handy for bottom brackets etc.

It's not just about the stuff but how you use it. Put plus gas on a seized bottom bracket a little bit every night for a week and by Sunday it will be easy off time. Putting it on straight away then expecting a miracle straight away is wishful thinking.

I thought this thread was going to be about BRM

This is one of those "I'm on QI and the siren's going to go off but what the hell" moments:

What is BRM?

a bit misleading isn't it

What is BRM?
Big Rusty Man

I just know I'm missing the reference here. And I've googled it. Comic book hero.

Looking at the message tags they say: nuts, penetrating, rusty. Which I grant is faintly disturbing. Did someone mention Duck Oil earlier?
And we are the saddos on lfgss at 7.30 on a Sunday morning. It's all begining to add up.