Sandblasting

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  • apologies if theres already a thread about this - if there is i can't find it

    Sandblasting a frame - any suggestions where to have it done - any comments or opinions. I could rub down the frame myself but would like to leave the frame bare so would like a very good finish not something i could do with hand tools and wet & dry paper.

  • dante, blasting will leave a very matt grey finish
    you could nitromors it?

  • actually was going to try and take it back to bare metal and leave it out in the rain to get a bit rusty and then treat it to get a rat look

  • yeah i could just nitromors it

  • Bead blasting leaves a nicer finish than sand blasting.

  • yeah.... paint is for losers!

  • and painters.

  • This is a big subject, just a few points for now.

    1. Don't rely on shotblasters being gentle with your frame, or knowledgeable about the requirements of different types of tubing.

    2. Masking. Best to mask anything fragile e.g. all threads, and the bottom of the steering tube where it joins the fork crown. Any wear at this point may cause the bottom ring of the headset to be a loose fit, which will cause juddering under braking.
      Chrome usually comes off only partially under blasting. The result is a mess - best to mask.
      Some blasters will pickle the work in a degreaser before blasting, ask about this, because it will remove your masking. Also, if any part of the frame is glued, as I seem to remember some Cannondale fork blades were, it should not go in the degreaser at all.
      Duct Tape is a good medium for masking, but it must be removed before painting because the adhesive melts in the oven.

    3. Tubing. I'm some way out of date on this, but Renolds did not approve of shot blasting 753 tubing(bead blasting is ok), and I expect the same applies to 853 & 653. However 531 is ok, but remember you lose about half an ounce of material at each blasting. Cannondale recommended bead blasting, and I guess this would apply to any ali frame. Bead is lighter and finer than chilled iron shot, but much, much slower to use. Expect expense with this.

    Personally, nowadays, I like the patina achieved just by wiping the frame with an oily rag.

  • ha - thanks guys - i may just go for the DIY/punk/murtle school of thought - i was just being lazy - saves money too eh?

  • I can do a sandblast for you. I'm no expert but my college has one.

  • thanks teleflorist - i've already started now but might have another project to do soon if you're still willing. I'll PM you.

  • yeah totally. like i said, i am no expert but it'll be free (or a couple of beers) and easy.

  • id give you a fair bit of beer if youd do my frame!

  • look out teleflorist here come the orders - should keep you in beer forever

  • btw thanks clubman for the in depth advice - i'm sure this will be of use to many folk

    This is a big subject, just a few points for now.

    1. Don't rely on shotblasters being gentle with your frame, or knowledgeable about the requirements of different types of tubing.

    2. Masking. Best to mask anything fragile e.g. all threads, and the bottom of the steering tube where it joins the fork crown. Any wear at this point may cause the bottom ring of the headset to be a loose fit, which will cause juddering under braking.
      Chrome usually comes off only partially under blasting. The result is a mess - best to mask.
      Some blasters will pickle the work in a degreaser before blasting, ask about this, because it will remove your masking. Also, if any part of the frame is glued, as I seem to remember some Cannondale fork blades were, it should not go in the degreaser at all.
      Duct Tape is a good medium for masking, but it must be removed before painting because the adhesive melts in the oven.

    3. Tubing. I'm some way out of date on this, but Renolds did not approve of shot blasting 753 tubing(bead blasting is ok), and I expect the same applies to 853 & 653. However 531 is ok, but remember you lose about half an ounce of material at each blasting. Cannondale recommended bead blasting, and I guess this would apply to any ali frame. Bead is lighter and finer than chilled iron shot, but much, much slower to use. Expect expense with this.

    Personally, nowadays, I like the patina achieved just by wiping the frame with an oily rag.

  • Just go to Armourtex - search Powdercoating to find threads on them - they will prob charge you about 30 quid to do it properly, will mask it all correctly - they have pretty much every blasting/chemical stripping facility at their place, and know what can/cant be done on Bicycles - many happy customers on the Forum, and they do all FGL's bike too

  • lol, even if orders come in i'll do what i can to fit people in, and try to not charge.

    i guess the occasional gift is good..

  • thanks vinylvillain

    http://armourtex.tripod.com/

  • Just go to Armourtex - search Powdercoating to find threads on them - they will prob charge you about 30 quid to do it properly, will mask it all correctly - they have pretty much every blasting/chemical stripping facility at their place, and know what can/cant be done on Bicycles - many happy customers on the Forum, and they do all FGL's bike too

    glass bead - around £49 at armourtex - very fine finish (would look nice clear coated)

  • no it wouldn't, it would look all shitty.

  • anyone know of anywhere on the west of london?

  • I'm considering sandblasting... if it's not too expensive. Can anyone recommend someone in Norfolk?

  • Old thread, but does anyone know one in London, around Camden?

  • Gonna drag this thread back up - anyone know anywhere that can sandblast in London?

  • Mario Vaz can do this for you in Hither Green

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Sandblasting

Posted by Avatar for dante @dante

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