Chain Master link / Joining Link safe?

Is the KMC 710SL masterlink 'safe' to use on a fixie or should it be ditched? I do not go off road or go 'brakeless' neither do i live in the urban jungle, country roads mainly with the occasional pothole.

If it is to be ditched, then what? I ask because the rivets look difficult to remove, so any suggestions on the best way to join the chain together, safely? If I need a chain tool, which one is best for this particular chain?

I've not heard of anyone having issues with them although some people don't trust them.
I'm running an Izumi bolt-up masterlink so I'll let you know when it comes off during Dunwich :)

I had a recent mega crash...so perhaps i am being very sensitive and over fretful!...hence I am asking for other opinions to either calm my fears or fan them....Hippy you have calmed them but the jury is still out.

If it bothers you remove it and join the chain yourself. Should be able to use any 'proper' chain tool for it. ie. not a piddling multi-tool one.

Due to a lousy chain breaker (and being shit with tools) I mangled one of the links of my chain. To maintain clearance, I have had to use the master link.

This kind.

Will it hold up under braking?

Hope so - I have powerlinks on each of the chains on my bikes. No problems so far.

i've got a miche chain with one of those on my plug.
i've allways thought they were a bit dodgy, but it seams to be holding up ok!

how's the head? got yourself some new tyres yet?

@jay, it will be fine.

yep, use them all the time.

shit, on the genocide i even use a 3/32 sram chain with a quick link that unhinges when pushed together, I skid, resist and hop with it, asking for trouble maybe..

Thank you my friends. I will sleep safe in the knowledge that I will not be chain whipped. Well at least not by my own bike.

@hoops. My head is scabbing up nicely. I got an Armadillo All Condition Elite on the front. It is 23c as opposed to the 25c Rubino Pro I had on before. So I probably negated the increased grip. Now my OCDs are playing up that I have 25c on the back and 23c on the front.

I have 25c on the back and 23c on the front.

It's a low-pro now, ghetto style!

Now my OCDs are playing up that I have 25c on the back and 23c on the front.

yeah man. thats a serious problem.

i mean the OCD......you might want to get that looked at

bloody hell hoops, he's ggoing to get all OCD about not getting his OCD seen to by a OCD type person

.

YouTube - Screw you guys i am going home

What master-link would people advise? I've got a 1/8" chain. I think it's a KMC 410 chain.

http://bicycletutor.com/quick-release-chain-link/
I have the second link on this Vid. am I ok using this type of like with a fix wheel

[

](http://bicycletutor.com/quick-release-chain-link/)http://bicycletutor.com/quick-release-chain-link/
I have the second link on this Vid. am I ok using this type of like with a fix wheel

Brilliant website. Thanks for the linky dinky.

What master-link would people advise? I've got a 1/8" chain. I think it's a KMC 410 chain.

I'd recommend the KMC; you get two in a pack for £1.95

http://www.parker-international.co.uk/11586/-KMC--1-8--Universal-Joining--Link-.html

I even got the completely superfluous pliers to go with them.

Moar tools.

I snapped a master link a few weeks ago when braking. The clip snapped in half and the chain came off. The chain held together though surprisingly but obviously couldn't ride on it in case the side plate fell off. I now join the chain with a chain tool...

I have never trusted chain tool joined chains.
The act of removing a rivet from a chain removed the mushroom head area that actually hold the rivet in place. Ergo when you push said rivet back into chain it is missing a crucial part/feature.
Split or joining links should be much safer on a fixed gear bike than they are on freewheel or geared bikes due to the drivetrain always (give or take a split second between pedalling and resisting) being under tension. It is tension which holds these links togother.

I have never trusted chain tool joined chains.
The act of removing a rivet from a chain removed the mushroom head area that actually hold the rivet in place. Ergo when you push said rivet back into chain it is missing a crucial part/feature.
Split or joining links should be much safer on a fixed gear bike than they are on freewheel or geared bikes due to the drivetrain always (give or take a split second between pedalling and resisting) being under tension. It is tension which holds these links togother.

Agree with the logic and guess I must have just had a weak split link thing. Never broken a chain that I have joined with a chain tool though, and while it is missing the mushroom bit the rivet is in pretty hard isn't it? (hence the tool to push it in)
I am always adding/removing links as gearing changes so having chain tool joined links is inevitable for me, unless I have more than one split links on the chain :-)

I've got an Izumi Super Toughness chain...

I like everything about it - especially the "Super Toughness" name - except the fiddly joining link that has a screw and nut

Does anyone know if I can just get another joining link (which is easier to use) and run it with that instead? And if so where from?

just either use the screw link, or join as you would a broken chain. i wouldn't use a joining link on that.

What Murtle said.
How much was that chain?