How much force to use when tightening lockring?

Posted on
  • Got my chainwhip/lockring tool today. Pushed down on the lever as hard as I could to make sure the lockring is tight and stripped the thread on the hub!!
    Should you be able to push as hard as you can, or when should you stop (I have a pair of Durace hubbed Open pros on their way and would be a bit pissed off if I do the same - especially as they are one sided)
    Will the Dura Ace hubs be stronger? (guess not as they are all aluminium alloy aren't they)

    Or am I just too strong? (I have been eating more)

  • 30lbs or something similar of force

  • Don't need to put absolutely all your weight on it cos if your cog ever does loosen it would wind backwards and tighten the lockring anyway.

    Get your cog nice and tight the lockring is just a backup

  • loads

  • Tighten the cog until you feel the creaking then tighten the lockring the same amount.

    You'll at least get the lockring off when you need to.

  • I don't tighten my lockring as tight as my cog.

    I chainwhip cog then maybe jump on pedals while bike is facing a brick wall to tighten cog (or sprint uphill and don't use any back pressure to slow).
    Then use lockring tool to tighten lockring on. Using reasonable pressure but not so much that you're popping veins. Just make sure it's tight against the cog.

  • the hulk didnt own a track bike for no reason

  • ^^^^

  • Thanks for the replies. The problem I was getting was after tightening the lockring pretty hard I could still unscrew the cog with the chainwhip by a 1/4 turn. So I assumed the lockring needed to be tighter and then broke it.
    I get the feeling this is all being caused by the poor hub tolerances on my cheap hub as it doesn't sound like the lockring needs to be so tight it is almost stripping the threads just to stop the cog undoing. Put the cog on the other side of hub and had a bit more luck.
    I am

  • ^ Might be your cog is too skinny for the hub threads. Fatter is better and would give you more threading to engage with the hub so less likely to strip. And CNC'd rather than stamped though they are a little more expensive = more likely to be 'round'

  • If the cog is too skinny it might allow the lockring to wind all the way onto its thread without actually touching the cog. Hub + Cog + Lockring Fail.

    adoubletap: damn you

  • I am using a Miche cog (the carrier type) which is pretty wide. I will go a bit more careful on my new hub and make absolutely sure the cog is wide enough and if not space it or buy another. (pity though as I have a 16, 17 and 18 cog for the Miche carrier!)

    As you can see, the Miche carrier is wide http://www.miche.it/scheda.php?id=463&idCat=247

  • Don't use miche cog on dura ace, it's like one of the only ones thats not good with DA,
    the threading is slighly out. Only time i've ever had a problem with a cog was when using miche on dura ace looked it up at the time to see it's not really reccomned.
    Go with a cnc cog one on's fit nicely, use a dura ace lock ring atleast.

  • Don't use miche cog on dura ace, it's like one of the only ones thats not good with DA,
    the threading is slighly out. Only time i've ever had a problem with a cog was when using miche on dura ace looked it up at the time to see it's not really reccomned.
    Go with a cnc cog one on's fit nicely, use a dura ace lock ring atleast.

    Cheers. Used an Andel in the end (with supplied Shimano lockring) Went on a treat, locked solid with zero movement when skidding to stop. That thing will be staying on for a few years now.

  • Post a reply
    • Bold
    • Italics
    • Link
    • Image
    • List
    • Quote
    • code
    • Preview
About

How much force to use when tightening lockring?

Posted by Avatar for kerley @kerley

Actions