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• #2
Polo bike for the taking!
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• #3
Man that quite a decent MTB built mate, great for polo as well!
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• #4
PM'd
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• #5
chain set and cranks when you split
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• #6
I'm out if anyone else is interested, my bloody Paypal account is fcked at the moment.
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• #7
Won't be splitting sorry, if it doesn't sell I'll use it as my pub bike or put it on ebay :D
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• #8
Perfect for the future polo player.
Come on! Hang out with a load of reprobates and drink loads more than ever before. -
• #9
POLO-tastic! Someone pick that up and get playing.
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• #10
First post!
I know it's a bit random of me to post to this thread and for all I know everyone has stopped reading it by now, but here goes:I am trying to work out the solution you are using for the front crankset/chainwheel. I am currently doing my best to convert a MTB to SS and I am struggling to find a single chainwheel solution for the BB.
Looking at my MTB frame it seems that the chainwheels have to protrude quite a bit to avoid crashing into the chainstays, which means I am forced to stick to the heavy and ugly 3 chainwheel crankset that came with the MTB. If there is a way around this please help me out. I've been looking for threads on this topic without much luck. And perhaps someone could mention some product names?
Thanks!
S & C -
• #11
Think you can get an extra long bb and run a single crank on that, should give you a decent chain line too.
Someone on here will know more than me though.
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• #12
keep the bike- just get rid of the missus
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• #13
yup, long BB, around the 118mm region probably, although best to check.
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• #14
First post!
I know it's a bit random of me to post to this thread and for all I know everyone has stopped reading it by now, but here goes:I am trying to work out the solution you are using for the front crankset/chainwheel. I am currently doing my best to convert a MTB to SS and I am struggling to find a single chainwheel solution for the BB.
Looking at my MTB frame it seems that the chainwheels have to protrude quite a bit to avoid crashing into the chainstays, which means I am forced to stick to the heavy and ugly 3 chainwheel crankset that came with the MTB. If there is a way around this please help me out. I've been looking for threads on this topic without much luck. And perhaps someone could mention some product names?
Thanks!
S & C
I got around this problem on an MTB conversion by using the original crankset and removed the inner and outer ring then used a cassette rear wheel with a converter from Charlie the Bikemonger. you can jiggle the chainline to get it spot on. the kit is about 17 quid. the cranks dont look great but its functional. -
• #15
Wider BB it is! Thanks for all your help.
Built this up for my wife to take to work but she hates it :D
Its a cheapie bankrupt stock 17" steel Saracen frame with Kona P2 forks and the rest built from bits I had hanging about.
Main bits are STX rear 7 speed hub with a Surly rear cog and spacers, no name front hub both on Mavic 238 rims with hardly any wear. ** Front wheel is not the one pictured**
LX chainset with new Salsa 32 tooth chainring, new KMC chain, Syncros stem, new Cane Creek S3 headset and you can see the rest in the pics :)
£100 posted to your door :) Does not come with pedals unless you want some very cheap flat ones fitted.
p.s no tensioner fitted as its perfect without one :)