Headset Removal - the DIY way

Has anyone used this method of removing headset cups?

http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/4563/imgp2423ym6.jpg

http://bp3.blogger.com/_SZx2oaxuJSA/RmjuVnmfi6I/AAAAAAAAAfA/e7JKzCqJrF8/s400/Headset1.jpg

You are supposed to slide the rod into the head tube, let the expanding side rest against the lip of the cup, and then hammer it out. There are a bunch of examples of this on the interwebs, so I thought I'd give it a try. Here is the result:

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd12/horatio7714/rod1.jpg
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd12/horatio7714/rod2.jpg
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd12/horatio7714/rod3.jpg

Luckily (maybe?) the rod is long enough that, were I to cut the bent top and bottom bits, it would still be long enough for my head tube. I'm just not sure it's worth it. Has anyone used this method before with success? Am I doing something wrong? Are the headset cups just too tight?

I would not use copper pipe.

Steel is real.

Or just a long screw driver taping gently round and around.

i have the proper tool i can bring to polo tomorrow

I suppose copper is used as it's soft enough so as not to do any damage to the frame/head set cups. It's a good idea in theory. In practise it did not work (for me!).

Cheers Dave. May take you up on that, but I'm itching to get my new headset in, so I have not exhausted all the possibilities for today - yet.

One of the many uses of old inner tube is to use it as protection to part you wish not to damage.

Also consider the part of the headset cup you are hitting. It does not matter if it gets marked where you are hitting it.

Am I doing something wrong? Are the headset cups just too tight?

Looks like you are using 15mm copper pipe and not the much much stronger 22 or 28mm ?? (much stronger wall thickness)

I posted this method up a while ago, it works fine for me.

"let the expanding side rest against the lip of the cup, and then hammer it out" - once into position you should gently tap the cup out, take your time, no big hard blows.

Didn't work when I tried it.

It's 1" (25mm). But it is possible I was hammering too hard. I'll cut it down and try again. The cup was not moving though...

+
FTW

It's 1" (25mm). But it is possible I was hammering too hard. I'll cut it down and try again. The cup was not moving though...

Maybe warm the frame, WD40 inside the headtube, tap tap tap.

?

I don't have a long enough screw driver. Maybe I should have bought that instead of copper pipe. Meh.

wooden dowling works perfic for me.

man, old straight handle bar, little tap, then other side, little tap, repeat, done.

I use..

you lay a cable in it?

and old set or bars, slide in, tap around and presto. wont damage the cup like a screwdriver and easy peasy too..

It sounds like my cups are just in there really really tight.

i am about in the workshop now if you want to pick the tool up or bring the frame here.

+
FTW

+1

Although a genuine hammer would be better.

Ive never had any problems getting the tightest of headset cups and crown races this way.

i am about in the workshop now if you want to pick the tool up or bring the frame here.

You still there Matt? (Do you have 'net there?) I could perhaps ride up with a couple of beers in exchange.

Cut the headtube off and get Max to weld a new one onto the frame. Much easier.

Yeah. Looks better too.

Tell you what, bring your bike to my house tonight and I'll doing the requisite sawing for you.

Deal.

Sweet. What time will you be round, I'll make some dinner.