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• #2
Don't worry about. Looks like the frame is a road frame (126 - 130 mm spacing) and the hub is a 120 mm track hub. Just tighten it up the steel will spring the 3 - 5 mm either side. This will not effect your chainline. That is defined by the hub and then needs to be matched by the correct combination of crank and bottom bracket.
P.S The hub MAY be an 110 mm, a rare old spacing, just stick 5 mm of washers either side if it is to reduce the flex in the frame has to go through.
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• #3
Tommy, he says the frame is 120mm spacing. I think you're right, it's a 110mm hub.
Just tighten is as Tommy says anyway, the frame will flex inwards fine.
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• #4
thanks for the advice.
the frame is 120mm and the hub is 110mm (just measured)
are you sure it wont mean the chain is too close to the frame for a good chainline?
I.E (yellow line representing chain)
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• #5
Yeah it maybe pretty close... what length BB have you got and what size chainring... 44t might be a sensible choice.
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• #6
Im gonna get a 107mm BB.
ive got a double chainring 80s dura ace crankset.
I put the inner ring 40t on the outside. i dont want to run the chainring in the inside. -
• #7
I i dont want to run the chainring in the inside.
you probably will have to for the best line.
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• #8
Yea, had the same problem with an old track frame, in the end, i had to run the chainring on the inside, as well as using chainring spacers (quite hard to find, hubjub hardly ever has them in stock).
Craps bolts meant new replacements every few months. -
• #9
ahh, that really sucks, I didn't want to have to run it on the inside..
Will getting a 120mm hub allow me to run on the outside?
or will i be able to get an acceptable line on the outside (with my current hub)? -
• #10
you need to measure your hubs chain line, your BB shell, then find what BB length your cranks want for the chain line that your hub gives you
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• #11
Resurrecting this as I'm having issues with a frame I picked up at the weekend in the hope that someone can lend some advice - its old-style spacing which requires expansion of the rear stays and fork. The rear fits OK without too much effort but the forks are out by around 6mm (at a guess).
The SB article here explains how rear spacing can be expanded without too much problems. Does anyone know about forks?
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• #12
You could re-space the axle so that the cog sat closer to the frame, but this would mean re-dishing the wheel which is a longer process.
This will probably get you a decent chain line which is what you actually want (need) to obtain. -
• #13
sounds a lot of work for a cheap build! I'm hoping the chainline will be acceptable without having to re-engineer. My main query is whether its safe to squeeze out the fork to fit the wider hub? Or just buy a new fork?
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• #14
Depends
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• #15
Squeezing it is then!
yo peeps.
Well i just received this beautiful legnano frame off ebay (from tourdeville)
its 120 rear spacing.
now ive recently built up a wheel set for the frame.
the rear hub is an old high flange normandy track hub.
having bought it off someone (not through ebay) i met, i was too stupid to check its spacing.
1 - the axle is too short.
2 - the hub spacing seems wierd.
Now i dont know much about chainlines but if the chain runs perfectly straight from the track cog (i improvised using a piece of string from the threading on the hub) it seems to go straight through the BB shell. ive included pictures to illustrate this as best as possible.
I havent bought a BB or chain yet.
will it be possible to still use the hub? or will i have to rebuild my wheel with another hub?