How to tweak chain alignment

So I bought a Paddywagon.
It came with a nasty solid plate chainguard - whipped that off straight away.
Only trouble is the chainguard was on the outside of the crank spider thingamajig.
The chainwheel itself sits on the inside of the spider and frankly looks wrong.

I'd like to get the chainwheel on the outside of the spider but wonder if that's going to mess up the chain alignment too much, if so, any tips as to how to bring it all in line with the ring on the outside where it should be.

Thanks in advance

I think your going to have to either experiment with shorter bottom brackets, or live with your purchase and get over it.

:-O

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=380055884901

this looks too god to be true

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=380055884901

this looks too god to be true

:) your idea of 'too good to be true' is set pretty low - some metal rings.

I have loads of these, go to any bike shop with a mechanic and ask for a couple of old 9speed cassette spacers, they will usually give you a few for free.

Although with some hubs you pushing the cog further outboard may mean your lock ring may have too few threads to engage with.

Thanks Snoops

I'd been thinking only in terms of the BB - D'Oh
Will this work for the freewheel side of the hub as well? I'm new to fixed and still commuting SS, riding fixed at the weekends until I'm confident in traffic.

is it not possible to redish the back wheel a bit to line things up rather than using spacers etc? Just changing the nuts on the axle of the hub? I guess this would make things less flip/flop as the wheel would be designed to go one way around, but would it work?

^ the answer is yes, it's a cheap and fine way of doing it.

Read Sheldon Brown guide to fixed gear conversion. It's the holy grail really.

None of this helps FCN with his issue though.

(BTW i think the issue is he or she has bought a bike with an ugly chainring mounting... that's all)

Thanks Miro

It's not ugly so much as Ar5e about face - same difference really. I think if I ever come to replace the BB (quite likely as I'm covering about 120 Miles a week on it) then I'll address the issue, until then I might tinker with the spacers idea.

Cheers

PS I'm a bloke BTW

Good luck.
It's worth mentioning that if your moving the chainline outwards from the centre of the bike (as I believe is intended) you'll be increasing q factor.
Not exactly the end of the world though.

I'm not sure what you mean by q factor, but I'm guessing you mean that there'll be more torque in the whole system as the leverages become greater when you move the drivetrain further from the frame.

Please correct me if I'm wrong

q-factor is the distance between the pedals.
generally, narrower is considered better for your legs, though individuals are all different...

^ yep, I stand corrected. Your moving just your chainring and cog outwards, and leaving cranks and bb alone?

Then q factor wont be affected.

Thanks Miro

It's not ugly so much as Ar5e about face - same difference really. I think if I ever come to replace the BB (quite likely as I'm covering about 120 Miles a week on it) then I'll address the issue, until then I might tinker with the spacers idea.

Cheers

PS I'm a bloke BTW

I have a PW too, I do about 80 miles a week on mine, expect the BB to start creaking/squeaking soon, mine did. It sounds awful.