Is it worth any more...

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  • I have built up a conversion, which I was intending to keep for myself, so I used pretty good bits, but now I will have to sell it as I got something else (itchy trigger figure ebaying).

    And I am really curious whether people think I should try and sell for OK money because of the nice bits, or whether a working conversion is a working conversion, and the quality of the bits make no difference for resale?

    Quick overview of bits, 531 road frame, open pro CD rims, campag front hub, BN on one rear hub, BN miche BB, campag chorus cranks and ring, DA sproket, miche comp caliper etc etc.

  • Worked for me, but it's probably easier to split to get the dough.

  • I doubt you'd make your money back on your bike on, for example, ebay. Funny a few of us were talking about this over the weekend. It seems like there's a whole in the market at a certain level - cheap conversion jobs for people wanting to give it a go sell on ebay maybe with a little profit; guys on here trade with each other and see nice stuff on ebay/ anywhere else and know it's worth something and pay good money. Then there's the conversions with solid components that must be worth 400 spots - they never seem to go for a fair price. Maybe I'm wrong. I wouldn't sell mine.

    so yeah, maybe splitting is the only way forward, which seems sad.

  • Well, I managed to do it responsibly cheap by raiding the parts bin here and there and I'm not looking to make anything, just not loose too much.

    So I will put it up on here next week, see if there are any takers. See if someone wants a decent bike for a little bit more that a unipack.

  • the spec will be interesting

  • I'd be interested.

  • people generally want the real deal, horizontal drop outs being a major casing point.
    a conversion isn't as desirable, despite the quality of the frame or bits at hand.
    Sad but true, so, keep the bits and whack em on a track frame then sell, or sell the bits individually or just restore the bike to its original geared form and then sell, then u have the spare bits for another bikes, thats assuming you kept the bits from the bike prior to the conversion.

  • Insisting on track dropouts is snobbery! There's nothing wrong with a fixed conversion. Horizontal road drops make a frame more versatile than any other.

  • And I got £220 for a converted frame on t'Bay.

  • people generally want the real deal, horizontal drop outs being a major casing point.
    a conversion isn't as desirable, despite the quality of the frame or bits at hand.
    Sad but true, so, keep the bits and whack em on a track frame then sell, or sell the bits individually or just restore the bike to its original geared form and then sell, then u have the spare bits for another bikes, thats assuming you kept the bits from the bike prior to the conversion.

    ooh dear, cat among pigeons.

    I'm in last stages of a conversion and it's rather beautiful I can tell you.

    Check out Sheldon on horizontal dropouts and suitability.

    The rest is aesthetics dude..

  • bah, i find it so annoying to have non horizontal dropouts on my conversion that i have.

    I wanna cut em off and put proper dropouts on.

    I can't explain it but its just plain annoying.

  • magic gear

  • i just built a bob jackson today, it's a 1950s, early, judging by the headclip. i think it looks grand, and, according to barrie witcomb (who tells all sorts of stories every time i phone to see if my holdsworth is ready) some fixed/path frames were produced with horizontal dropouts in order to make the mudguard/puncture issue easier.

    i haven't finished it, i'll change the seatpost to an alloy and put a brooks on, and also change the chainring to something bigger and track specific (and change the rear cog, currently running 44:15, or 75ish).

    as for cost, and i know i've cross-posted this, but it makes me laugh, it was £70 off the bay.



  • as for cost, and i know i've cross-posted this, but it makes me laugh, it was £70 off the bay.

    fairness fail

  • what does that mean? i'm tired and in my bed and too confused to work it out.

  • i just built a bob jackson today, it's a 1950s, early, judging by the headclip. i think it looks grand, and, according to barrie witcomb (who tells all sorts of stories every time i phone to see if my holdsworth is ready) some fixed/path frames were produced with horizontal dropouts in order to make the mudguard/puncture issue easier.

    i haven't finished it, i'll change the seatpost to an alloy and put a brooks on, and also change the chainring to something bigger and track specific (and change the rear cog, currently running 44:15, or 75ish).

    as for cost, and i know i've cross-posted this, but it makes me laugh, it was £70 off the bay.



    Looks reet nice built up PJ, and the clearances don't look half bad for a 1950s frame...i'm assuming those are 700s?

  • what does that mean? i'm tired and in my bed and too confused to work it out.

    it's just in no possible way fair

  • Looks reet nice built up PJ, and the clearances don't look half bad for a 1950s frame...i'm assuming those are 700s?

    shit - i meant to say thanks for bits and bobs and help with headclip! really useful. i have a query about that miche BB - was it a 107? if so, what's the most you can offset it? i've got some thread poking out the drivetrain side. i think i have issues with the adapted camppy chainring. i may file down the metal pegs on the back.

    yes - clearance is ok isn't it, and is 700s. funny, i seem to have a stock of old brakes i hoard; weinmanns fit, as do these original dura ace from years and years ago. didn't need deep drop or anything. i have got a pair of 27s here, but didn't see the need to put them on.

  • Yeah the bb was 107, and i reckon you can get away with maybe 3mm sticking out, as long as the non-drive cup is tight on the other side (resulting in it going into the bb shell slightly). Filing down the pegs on the back of the chainset will mean that you can keep the chainring on the outside, and get the right chainline...have come across this problem many a time!
    I'd imagine that if you did put 27s on it'd be fairly tight...hence not needing deep drop brakes. Nice!!

  • cool - so i wasn't clutching at straws with the 'file it down' approach.

    i'll take my crank puller in to work tomorrow and head for the DT lab. i'm sure they got some sort of metal filer machine thingy.

    it's such a lovely old bob jackson. i'm really pleased with it. at least 50 years older than the ones you see around town. including my vigorelli.

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Is it worth any more...

Posted by Avatar for gizmond @gizmond

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