Installing a Phil Wood bottom bracket

hey,

about to put a phil BB in my new build. the instructions supplied are a little ambiguous and don't have diagrams. i like diagrams. i remember stumbling across an illustrated guide to installing a phil BB somewhere on the internet. but for the life of me can no longer find it. anyone seen it, bookmarked it perchance?

cheers.

Screw in drive side cup. Get correct chainline. Screw in other cup to lock?

use copper or lithium grease, make sure threads are 110% clean b4 installation.

cheers

Gonna splash out on a phil BB and wondering do you need two bb tools like Will at hubjub says? I can't for the life of me thing why, I have put in a bunch of flangeless BBs and never needed to hold both cups before. Not buying from hubjub buy the way, friend in the states is getting it.

Ignore all innuendo.

yes, you do need two, otherwise when you tighten one end, the other loosens. That was my experience at least (english threading)

i have done it with one.

did you get metal burrs in your cock?

I always do it with one.

no, i used a condom, got to to play it safe when you don't know where the bitch has been

no, i used a condom, got to to play it safe when you don't know where the bitch has been

did you get metal burrs in your cock?

I'd rather not have observations like these on a forum about FGSS stuff, whether in a thread about fitting a Phil bottom bracket or anything else. Why don't you keep them to yourselves?

You're probably on the wrong forum then.

This is the London Fetish Gear and Strange Sex forum isn't it?

+1 Object.

Phil BB question.. I installed my shiny new Phil BB yesterday, followed PW's website instructions and got chainline spot on and tightened that badboy up nice and tight.

Now, on all previous BB's I've installed, when you've got it in and you have one crank arm on it spins freely...i.e. with just the one crank on if you spin it it will rock back and forth under its own momentum for a while.

But with the Phil it seems a bit stiff. With just the one arm on, if I put this arm at the 12 oclock position it will slowly fall round but won't swing freely under its own momentum.

Seems like there's more resistance than there should be, as if I've tightened it too much but I can't see how this could be an issue.

Help.

What would Harry do?

Whine?

Phil BB question.. I installed my shiny new Phil BB yesterday, followed PW's website instructions and got chainline spot on and tightened that badboy up nice and tight.

Now, on all previous BB's I've installed, when you've got it in and you have one crank arm on it spins freely...i.e. with just the one crank on if you spin it it will rock back and forth under its own momentum for a while.

But with the Phil it seems a bit stiff. With just the one arm on, if I put this arm at the 12 oclock position it will slowly fall round but won't swing freely under its own momentum.

Seems like there's more resistance than there should be, as if I've tightened it too much but I can't see how this could be an issue.

Help.

I phoned Phil Wood and the woman there said you should only tighten the BB to the specified torque spec, otherwise you can damage it. I had definitely overtightened mine initially as it didn't spin freely, after untightening it it runs smoothly again. Almost that is, when I spin it in my hand I can feel a very slight resistance at one angle and on one side. I'm hoping that's something that will settle down once it gets ridden in a bit and I haven't caused permanent damage...

On the flip side I got my chainline dialled in perfectly. Forget the measurements and calculations, I found the best way was just to check it visually from behind and adjust the cups accordingly:

Better late than never eh.

Digger knows. He installed mine.

Just as a follow up to my earlier post, I had the Phil BB sent in to Tim @ Sideways Cycles (recommended by Hubjub) who are able to service Phil BBs in the UK. He confirmed that the bearings had in fact been shot by my installation, and replaced the bearings for £35, which I believe is comparable to gettting Phil Wood to do them, but of course much quicker.

I'm getting the BB shell chased before the install and have purchased the expensive but nice Park TW-6 torque wrench with the required 7/8" socket, so let's see if I can't get this BB installed properly...

In terms of required torque Phil recommend either 20 or 25 ft-lb depending on which PDF you read on their site, so this is what they had to say:

Thank you for your inquiry and your support of Phil Wood products. Just the other day we were discussing whether anyone really reads our torque specs. Glad to see people are using them. Generally, 20 ft-lb is plenty of torque. Going over 25 isn't advisable, as we have seen some bottom bracket cartridges compressed and shaped weirdly under about 30 ft-lb. I'll let our tech folks know to check the torque specs on our website.

Today my Ti Phil Wood BB spindle snapped.

Have just called them up, they were utterly charming, have requested i send it back to them and they will replace the spindle and ship it back out the same day.

So much for a fit and forget part, but awesome service.

But did have to buy a cheap BB in the meantime.

it'll probably last longer :)

Not sure, the cup is made of plastic, I mangled the aluminium phil wood bb cups in under a year, so doubt a plastic one will last too long.

I'd be happy if it lasts long enough for the replacement to arrive.

just get a cheapo campag