Stuck cog Fuji track

went to pick up my brand new fuji from the shop today, and wanted to swap the cog over to an 18t..

to cut a (2 hour) story short, the shop couldnt get the old cog off.

any tips? this was the first track bike they had ever seen, so i guess ill let them off, but really need to get the 18t on.

thanks

wd40 + big chain whip or rodafixa

They did take the lockring off first, right?

yep.. removed the lock ring..... wd40 and a chainwhip was also used.... that cog didnt budge

Turning it the right way ? (the opposite way to how the lock ring turns)

anti-clockwise?

^ yes
and now u need stronger arms

tried putting it in the frame and cranking backwards.... would that ever succeed?

^ no
coz u don't produce as much torque as using a chain whip / rodafixa
u can try putting the wheel back in to the frame and ask someone to jump on to the chain whip
the way i usually do it is sit on the wheel, and press the chain whip down as much as i can

reverse rotafix works every time.

• 1000000000 million.
  
  
  

What tommy said is correct.
Work out what a reverse rotafix entails and then do that.
1,2,3 and POW! you'll be sorted in no time.
(The POW! was from my first reverse rotafix removal- smacked myself in the head)
:)

my fuji cog was so stuck broke a dura ace lock ring tool reverse rotafixed it and off in 30 seconds

WTF is reverse rotafix? Could somebody explain in simpleton terms?

basically my good man, take the chain off the chainring, wrap it round the cog in such a way that the chain is overlapping and engaging with itself, and then twist the wheel till all the slack in the chain is taken up. Then keep twisting till the cog comes off. You just need to figure out which way to twist. I am that way retarded and cannot figure it out without actually doing it, and even then i get it wrong. ;)

see here for pictures and everything (google is your friend!)

rotafix broke my brain when i tried it

it took me a good half an hour to do it (or at least think that i'd done it) even with that article. I still prefer a good ole chainwhip though.

fuji use locktite in the factory, the pink flakes that come off the threads once you get it off are locktite i think.

try boiling water apparently.

Dredging a bit.

This rotafix lark - does it need serious effort or should it loosen easily enough?

I'm attemping a simple (hah) spoke replacement, but reckoned without removing the cog first and am tool-less, but have got the lockring off with hammer/screwdriver combo and now the cog appears to be welded on.

Dredging a bit.

This rotafix lark - does it need serious effort or should it loosen easily enough?

I'm attemping a simple (hah) spoke replacement, but reckoned without removing the cog first and am tool-less, but have got the lockring off with hammer/screwdriver combo and now the cog appears to be welded on.

It's easier - probably something to do with the difference in the amount of power you get from doing it from the tyre/rim than doing it at the hub.

Just do it g-e-n-t-l-y - when it goes it goes, and you could go with it.

Chainwip got mine off from new, with the old big bit of pipe on the end to increase force (ie super long handle) and a considerable amount of swearing and sweat.
Also if you want to make your tires last longer i'd go 19t or 17t cog on the back, 17t will also go on without you having to alter chain length, 19t needs another link.
Enjoy your fuji frolicking.

Couple of cocktails down now - I'll give it another go. (Not a Fuji BTW, just a stuck cog.)

bah. off to LBS tomorrow for chainwhip and assistance.

FAIL.

bah. off to LBS tomorrow for chainwhip and assistance.

FAIL.

Rotafix never fails.

Villa-ru fail.

Try harder!

park pro whip long extention bar turn it the right way?

d'oh! just realised that I was replying to the initial post - 31st May - heh heh heh, I guess pete got it off by now.
Yeah rota-fixin only good for paint removal and chain busting. Well when I tried it was anyhoo, I likes my chainwhip, sounds kinda kinky . . . . .chain . . . . . . . . wwwwhhhhhhhhhip.
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