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• #2
nah - squeeze her in. i do that with peugeot, no probs at all.
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• #3
squeeze in.
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• #4
or washers on the axle?
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• #5
no, squeeze. no washers. shut up.
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• #6
my mercian likes the squeeze...
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• #7
so do you, ratfink. i've heard. we know.
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• #8
you've heard the puppies squealing?
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• #9
@ everyone:
Cheers for your input, this bastard is getting the squeeze.
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• #10
and the small children.
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• #11
you have to make sure you squeeze it equally. Mr S Brown has a section on squeezing using DIY ghetto old piece of fence as a tool - http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html
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• #12
no - not coldset sammy, squeeze. is different.
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• #13
its better to do it permanently, if you squeeze you can't be sure its gonna be equal both sides.
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• #14
yeah, it's fine.
if it isn't, it isn't. but it will be, and then it'll spring back. save you having to go to lbs and ask for specific bit of wood tool to coldset frame, then getting wrong bit of wood tool.
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• #15
The New Park Wood tool will last for years though, and the manufacturing tolerances they are produced to are incredible - it literally glides straight through the rear triangle. Plus theres a blue rubber handle for extra accurate bending grip ;-)
photoshop anyone?
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• #16
I have a spinergy rear that would fit fine....
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• #17
I have a spinergy rear that would fit fine....
Got any pictures yet ?
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• #18
ive similiar problem. The frame is 126mm and my hub is 120mm..ive been reading the thread ...about squeezing the frame.....how do you exactly squeeze the frame?....any speacial tools require?
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• #19
Max Bygraves sang a song about it ^
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• #20
Max Bygraves sang a song about it ^
??
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• #21
ive similiar problem. The frame is 126mm and my hub is 120mm..ive been reading the thread ...about squeezing the frame.....how do you exactly squeeze the frame?....any speacial tools require?
126mm to 120mm doesn't need anything done to it. You could add a washer or extra locknut each side but 3mm further in each side isn't much.
What you are asking about though is 'cold setting'
http://www.lfgss.com/thread838.html
http://www.lfgss.com/thread26149.html
http://www.lfgss.com/thread34767.html -
• #22
I love it when they use the search.
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• #23
126mm to 120mm doesn't need anything done to it. You could add a washer or extra locknut each side but 3mm further in each side isn't much.
What you are asking about though is 'cold setting'
http://www.lfgss.com/thread838.html
http://www.lfgss.com/thread26149.html
http://www.lfgss.com/thread34767.htmlI think i got the anwers now...,went to the 2nd link got this " considered this, but I decided it was too daunting for 6mm (120mm hub in 126mm spacing) and decided to just pinch it with the track nuts. Glad it work out!""
You are a star...cheers mate
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• #24
Might be worth re-stating for this thread that all the above is fine for steel, but really not good for aluminium.
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• #25
I have a little problem choosing the right hub size.*
I need to replace my horrible wheels.
Frame is 135 but i'm afraid to buy 130 or 135 hub because i'm planning to get a new frame in the next few months. I'll be trying to find some classic frame here on the forum and most of them are 120 or 125.
Is it really stupid idea to ride a 120 hub on 135 frame for a few months? *How would you space it?
Basic question for those who know (which isn't me).
I have a frame, the rear spacing is 127mm (between the inside of the dropouts).
I am looking at a rear hub that is track standard 120mm, could I simply squeeze the stays in 3.5mm when fitting (this can be done with little effort) ?
Or should I look around for a 130mm rear hub and pull the stays out 1.5mm each side ?
Any input appreciated.