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• #2
It all depends how vertical the drops are. If there's some movement front to back, a half link may be right for you. You'll be lucky to get spot-on chain tension with a half link that lasts forever.
From what I've heard half links are notorious for bending out of shape, stretching, or snagging on gear teeth.
Try it though, it's a very cheap option if you can't find a magic gear with what you've got.
Take a look at http://eehouse.org/fixin/formfmu.php for working out if a half-link will get you the right gear. Also other pages there about chain stretch etc.
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• #3
they are semi vertical i think as defned by sheldon. a 70/80s brian rourke frame
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• #4
If they're semi-vertical you may not even need a half-link. It all depends what sort of gearing you want or are willing to put up with. Half-link will double your options though.
Rough guide: Changing either sprocket or chainring by one tooth, moves your axle by 1/8" (approx 3mm). See if you can plug some figures into the tool at tthe link above and check your options.
I've done a bit of playing round with an old MTB and managed to get it single speeded with something like semi-vertical dropouts. The chain is a little slack but has never come off. If you want to set the bike up fixed, i'd be more cautious about a slack chain as you'll be using the drive train for some degree of braking.
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• #5
yeh im just transfering all my parts from my new fixed wheel to an old racing frame and wondering if it is that easy or if i need new kit.
as long as the chain isnt slack il be fine no?
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• #6
why are you doing that?
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• #7
boredom, curiosity, new tools.
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• #8
ok. have fun...
;)
would the use of a halflink chain solve problems of chain tension on vertical drops?
or is an eccentric hub essential?
thanks