Removing BB - Advice

i want to get frame sprayed. however, i have to get FUCKING RIGHT SIDE of bottom FUCKING bracket out.

has destroyed chisel, also broken tool at AW Cycles.

it's a fixed cup thingy. i took out the left side and the other bits. i soaked the fucker in enough WD40 to sink a battleship. nothing. it's tight as a nun's chuff.

What material is the frame and the bb? That may help in advising on the next step.
Dan, the mechanic at Sigma in Kingston, swears by plumbers pipe freeze for getting aluminium out of steel, i.e. a seized seat post. You can buy it in a aerosol can from most hardware stores.

steel frame, almost certainly steel bb.

a) don't let asm near it
b) listen again, don't get asm near it
c) definitely dont't let asm near it

d) put cup in vice and spin the frame around

why bother spending more ££ on the frame than the frame is worth. ghetto look is the new fashion ;)

angle grind it. It's how i clean my teeth now.

this is serious ghetto.

it is rusty.

i want it sprayed.

You could warm it a bit, and hope.

I'd get a better penetrating oil than WD40, i.e. Plus Gas, as a start. If you can leave it submerged in some overnight to really allow it to soak in.
If that fails you're getting into hacksaw territory...

i might try Edwardes.

failing that, the Sheldon bolt-trick.

Make sure you are turning it the right way too - check carefully about the thread direction, I seem to remember that the threads go the opposite way on each side of the BB. Someone else confirm that has an old BB set ?

i checked that, it's clockwise.

So you have tried the chisel, where you using a heavy hammer i.e 5 lb becasue that can make a big difference.

If all else fails cobalt drills bits start small and get bigger, as close to the threads as possible, don't worry if you tough the threas in a few places as you will need to get them cleanedd up anyway by a bike shop but try to avoid it.

When drilling drill at a slow speed, also add oil on to the contact patch to keep every thing a bit cool. Don't let the bit get to hot or else you will damage it.

Also get a center point so you can avoid the drill skidding about when you first start.

So lotts of drilling and some more chisel work will get you through.

Good luck

pj (pj) i checked that, it's clockwise.
right side is anti clockwise to undo!! both side spin back toward the seat post, reverse pedal direction

eyebrows You could warm it a bit, and hope.

dont heat it that can work both ways and may weld it to the frame instead of helping it out i second the vice with the plus gas

^ true, but I remember once watching someone angle grinding off a stuck crank/ BB cup, and without getting much headway, the whole thing heated up and the cup just fell out.

And I wasn't responsible for asm's cranks. Honest!

Thinking about this... if you've got the other cup out you could use the plumbers freeze stuff and spray the stuck cup with it - hopefully it'll contract and with some injudicious brute force you might get it free?

yes, sorry, they spin forward to undo.i have been doing it in that direction.

pj (pj) yes, sorry, they spin forward to undo.i have been doing it in that direction.

forward to tighten!

dogsballs [quote]pj (pj) i checked that, it's clockwise.
right side is anti clockwise to undo!! both side spin back toward the seat post, reverse pedal direction[/quote]

wrong it's the oposit way.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_p.html#precession

it's def forwards on the left side, i checked and double checked.

fuck, damn that bugger is dead and still is right. just making sure ;)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Precession

fucking BASTARD thing.