Who has ever stripped the thread on a track hub - an alternative hub thought

Warning - rambling post...

Been doing some searching and this does not seem to have been discussed much on here but looking at the forum below:

(type 'stripped' and search titles only, then return)

http://www.bikeforums.net/search.php?f=178

There are pages of people who have stripped their hubs - obviously there are plenty of idiots but plenty who have used top notch gear, installed everything super careful by the book and still come a cropper.

I'm from a MTB background in which equipment has been refined to the n'th degree in the last 15 years - seems though that fixed wheel bikes in the main still rely on a few fine threads on a cylinder of soft aluminium to hold a hardened steel cog in place.

What do others think? Obviously it is still used on the real velodromes presumably without incidence (due to high levels of equipment, installation - and lack of severe back pressure braking??) but in the real world on the street?

I posted up some pics of my offroad fixie that uses an ISO (6 bolt disc) mount drilled cog before and I am considering using a similar system on a road fixie:

I first got the idea from this site a couple of years ago:

http://www.fixedgeargallery.com/articles/tomchow/dischub/

The beauty of this is it has to be just about the most solid way to mount a cog and cogs are easy to change with an allen key. Downside is either sourcing or drilling your own cogs - more on this here:

http://www.londonfgss.com/discussion/2419/?Focus=64214#Comment_64214

On a road bike with 120 spacing the idea is to use a 6 bolt *front *MTB hub for the rear, ideal choice is a Shimano XT M756.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=3986

These are perfect - XT hubs are double sealed for offroad use, bullet proof, large flange and run on standard (but high quality) cup and cone bearings. However, best of all (apart from being silly cheap for the quality - £23 at CRC) is that they run a standard 10mm axle. Thus, any standard solid 10mm rear axle can be installed and a 10mm spacer added each side to space it to 120mm as per track frames. In addition the chainline on a cog mounted this way brings it out to about 40mm. A couple of spacer washers allows fine tuning to 42mm or whatever...

Bearings spaced out a bit you might say? Ahh, a front hubs bearing are no further apart than an MTB rear hub with 135mm spacing.

Stress on a ISO mount with the cog? Can't see it - these XT hubs are capable of 40mph + pro downhill descents on 45 lb bikes with 6 pot callipers straining on eight inch rotors - that's got to be more force than the average joe twirling the pedals at 20mph down a London side street?!

For the front wheel why stick with a track hub? Again an XT front hub (non disc this time) is available for £12 at CRC, is much lighter and thinking is, a small flange on the front may give a bit more comfort to the wheel...?

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=10356

Other downsides may be asthetics I guess?

Any thoughts?

good idea
but would the chainline work out alright?

The fact your sprocket is just bolted to the disc mount, you can space the sprocket out with simple washers and longer bolts to fine tune your chainline. I need to space my rear sprocket out and I've been looking at goldtec hubs, I was aware of this system of hacking a front hub but couldn't find a decent pic of a hub to measure up.

also handy for jap bikes with 110mm rear spacing.

Yep, as in my post a front hub mounted this way gives a 40mm chainline with cog against mount. On a front MTB (same 100mm OLD as road) the disc sits 10mm inside the front fork mounting face. Washers can be placed in between cog and mount to fine tune a few mm's (see pic above).

Erm, don't LeVeL hubs solve this?
LeVeL Hubs and Cogs at Hub Jub

Heck of a lot more expense though and from what I have read quality ain't always all it should be, cogs are very proprietary too...

Still, some interesting comparisons here:

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=338973&highlight=level

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=86278&highlight=level

On a road bike with 120 spacing the idea is to use a 6 bolt *front *MTB hub for the rear, ideal choice is a Shimano XT M756.
These are perfect - XT hubs are double sealed for offroad use, bullet proof, large flange and run on standard (but high quality) cup and cone bearings. However, best of all (apart from being silly cheap for the quality - £23 at CRC) is that they run a standard 10mm axle. Thus, any standard solid 10mm rear axle can be installed and a 10mm spacer added each side to space it to 120mm as per track frames. In addition the chainline on a cog mounted this way brings it out to about 40mm. A couple of spacer washers allows fine tuning to 42mm or whatever...
Bearings spaced out a bit you might say? Ahh, a front hubs bearing are no further apart than an MTB rear hub with 135mm spacing.
Stress on a ISO mount with the cog? Can't see it - these XT hubs are capable of 40mph + pro downhill descents on 45 lb bikes with 6 pot callipers straining on eight inch rotors - that's got to be more force than the average joe twirling the pedals at 20mph down a London side street?!
Any thoughts?

I had the same idea, bought the same (XT HB-M756) hub, put in a new 10mm axle and track nuts, spaced it out to 120mm ... but time commitments mean I haven't built it into a wheel yet.
One possible drawback for this hub is that it uses smaller balls than normal for a rear hub - I forget if it's 7/32" or 3/16". Smaller than 1/4" in any case. I don't know if that will have any real impact on bearing life. The bearings are spaced further apart than a typical multi-speed freewheel hub, and there are more of them than in most front hubs.

I do like this but I would really like a flip flop hut and being as you (to my knowledge) you can't get a frount hub with an iso disk mount on each side it kind of lets it down. I know it is faster to change cogs with this than a normal hub but still not as fast as jsut flipping the wheel for a different ratio.

I have also seen this method before and it is good you are right but you need to find a double disk mount hub and you to be really sorted.

Someone used to make double front disks. I haven't heard anything about them for a decade though...

just a quick question here. Could you use a rear MTB hub in order to fixify an old MTB?
You know, by reversing the rear hub, and bolting the cog to the disc holes on the hub?
i.e.:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=3987
And if so- would that work for any horziontal drops?

White Industries do a 135mm Eccentric Hub for MTB. That would solve the fixed/free thing as well as providing chain tension correction and a solution for the vertical drops.

Don't the Phil Wood KISS OFF hubs also solve much the same, minus the chain tensioning of course.

eyebrows just a quick question here. Could you use a rear MTB hub in order to fixify an old MTB?
You know, by reversing the rear hub, and bolting the cog to the disc holes on the hub?
i.e.:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=3987
And if so- would that work for any horziontal drops?

Ask me again at the end of January.
My current project, seeing as I missed out on the track frame I was bidding on, is converting a 1998 DMR Trailstar (Track ends with Euro BB) into a fixed offroader. .
I'll be building it with a rear singlespeed mountain bike hub. Fixed via the ISO mounts and free via on the screw-on freewheel. I'm planning on an NS Bikes singlespeed hub but may go with the Atomlab hub (Likely overkill but sounds fun).

I think the whole idea obviously works...
but having to drill out cogs is top gay.

I wouldn't seriously consider it until a decent manufacturer made some cogs specifically done for the job and I like double fixed anyway

but then if they already make hubs and sprockets, why would they?

wouldn't the level cogs work or the one in the thread?

These two companies make ISO mounted sprtockets

Boone
Highpath

I've emailed both companies to find out prices and production times.

eyebrows just a quick question here. Could you use a rear MTB hub in order to fixify an old MTB?
You know, by reversing the rear hub, and bolting the cog to the disc holes on the hub?
i.e.:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=3987
And if so- would that work for any horziontal drops?

eh?!

Errr, see my opening post and pictures. And here too:

http://www.londonfgss.com/discussion/2292/evening-everyone-new-here-ss-sometimes-fixed-mtber-with-fuji-track-qs/#Item_21

Max [quote]eyebrows just a quick question here. Could you use a rear MTB hub in order to fixify an old MTB?
You know, by reversing the rear hub, and bolting the cog to the disc holes on the hub?
i.e.:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=3987
And if so- would that work for any horziontal drops?

eh?!

Errr, see my opening post and pictures. And here too:

http://www.londonfgss.com/discussion/2292/evening-everyone-new-here-ss-sometimes-fixed-mtber-with-fuji-track-qs/#Item_21[/quote]

That's a sweet machine. Congratulations.