My chain double clicks

Ok, Guys question.
I believe to have a near to ideal chainline on my track frame and was so far very happy with the smooth sound (silence)
if my fix. Another reason I like fixed.....no coasting tictictictictictictictictictictictictictictictic..
Thats probably why I get so obsessed/ annoyed with this problem now:
In the last few day my chain started to "speak up".
It is a rythmical click...click (i.e. twice) on every revolution. I cant work out when it does it by the look of it ?
Does this ring a bell with anyone ?
The guy in condor (might be on fgss too btw) recommended even more lube.
But I was under the impression that more lube only makes more dirt stick on the chain
and the "necklace" appeal is lost

my guess is that the chain is slightly rubbing up against one of the teeth on the rear cog. if the chain does not have enough lube on it, the chain can ever-so-slightly snag on the tooth. give it a lube, wipe off excess, and see if that works okay. remember to wipe off the excess lube and WATCH YOUR FINGERS.

I'd first ensure your chainring bolts are tight. If they're loose they'll start clicking, then creaking and then they'll fall out.

Then lube the chain a little. You may be hearing the sound of the chain at the tight spots on each revolution, due to non-round chainring. Leave the lube on there for a while and then wipe off an excess.

Then check your pedals.

could be a tight link in the chain too, if you installed it yourself did you use a joiner or just pins??
take the wheel out and bend the chain all over to check,

Double check your rear wheel too. Loose spokes click as they rub together.

Next to check is your Bottom bracket. Derail the chain and then see if you can feel any movement, when you put pressure on the crank arms.

Its another source of the annoying clicks.

thanks , guys
as always prompt and pro advice... I will try.
@31trum : No I just just the link that came with the chain. I guess that is the pain.
Is that sub optimal ?

i never joins joiners always use the chain, much stronger

breglis It is a rythmical click...click (i.e. twice) on every revolution.

Revolution of what? The rhythm of the cranks is almost always different to that of the rear wheel which will be different to the chain itself. Work out that, and you are halfway to knowing where the problem is. Then it might just be a case of undoing things, cleaning and re-greasing the threads, and tightening everything up again. Now if I could just work out where that squeak was coming from...

sounds like the chain to me...

Raleigh clicks like a fscker.. probably bottom bracket.
The Soma was also making lots of clicking noises and as suspected it was the cranks (which I couldn't tighten - 7mm) and the chainring bolts.
Also check that your saddle and seatpost are clean and tight where they fit. A lot of clicking sounds like driveline but is actually a bad clamp on the post or saddle rails.
More cider!!!!!!

i never joins joiners always use the chain, much stronger

only true if you do it properly...powerlinks....or whatever you call them are unblievably easy to use and much more reliable than a badly joined chain....no stiff links either.

are they the ones with the screw bolt thingie???

SRAM powerlinks. Dunno about the screw on ones.. I've heard they can undo..

ah yes, seen and used those, still prefer the chain to chain method.....sorry

I've had this sort of thing before, usually seem to get sorted by cleaning the chain and/or adjusting tension a bit .

31trum(murtle) sounds like the chain to me...

Quite.

Check links, flex laterally, loosen with breaker if necessary, then...

... quiet.

ok, da asorted bike-whisperers..I should I say listeners
'Bike Sounds' should be a sticky post by the response to it.

pip & hippy were the closest. I did every check now as you recommended
with the chain derailed I discovered a movement some play in the BB.
which led to the rhythmical shift of the chainring which then pushed the chain against the rear sprocket
Unfort. I do not have the right tools here to tighten it.

breglis pip & hippy were the closest.

Damn them both to HELL!!! They're witches, I tell's ya.

yeah.. surely they are riding 58/4 ratios too

breglist: Do I win a prize? (65x3T, btw)
bmmf: warlock mate, warlock!

hmmm lets see...a 21gear ladybike and a pink polo ?

btw...tried the 48/18..mez dont like it...feels a bit a nancy feeling to it.
I feel like I pedal myself stupid today
switched back to 48/16. dunno ...maybe I want it bad & hard..

Ok Guys,
since I am a noob, I went to condor and wanted the BB tightend quickly. They laughed, but the guy there was great (helpful)
he convinced me to buy the tools cause cheaper & u get to knowur bike better.
so the investment for the crank remover & BB tool was made and home I went.
It all went very well. I took it all apart , clean & greased it...
Question:
After new lube the axle works like a dream inside the BB, but after I put the BB back in
and tighten & the two parts key in the the axle does not revolve smoothly anymore. kinda buumpy & with friction
Obviously I untightend it to achieve a compromise, but I now have a remaining amount of play...
which I intended to get rid off completely. Is this as good as it gets ? I thought the BB should be rock solid
Sorry if the terminology is bad...Appreciate your advice

What type of BB is it? Check this: http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=94

If it's cup-and-cone, there's usually a sweet spot for tightness. Sometimes you have to leave it slightly loose (bit of play) before tightening the lock ring with your C-spanner. Even if you're trying to hold things perfectly in place, they can shift a bit during the final tighten (a bit like hub cones).

If it's a cartridge jobby, fuck knows.