Chain tension and tensioning a chain

I was having the same problem and then upgraded my chainring. I have one of those Thorn 1/8" chainrings from SJS. Things improved but the problem is still noticeable. I worked with the chainring "truing" idea ie tensioning the stack bolts gradually. A bit more improvement but still noticeable. So I'm wondering if it's to do with the cranks. Perhaps the crank arm spider is pulling the chainring out of true. They aren't proper track cranks.

Captain Link felt compelled to post this even though it may not help you..
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixed.html#tension

This is slightly unrelated:
Today on my geared roadie I noticed my chain slipping when I stamped on the pedals. It actually happened going across a junction and I nearly came off. I just changed the chainwheel (old for old but replaced for newer old) to fix this problem but its started again so I'm thinking it could be the chain or even the sprocket.

I hate it when bikes cost money for the boring non-fun bits (ie not an upgrade or a bling part).

It's often poor derailler adjustment or a bent derailler hanger combined with frame flex that drops the chain.
But, seeing as you were changing parts around it's also likely to be OLD + NEW = POO.
You should keep a chain and cassette together. It's not often that a chainring would do this unless the chain is well worn.
Do you know where did the chain slipped? Front or back? Did it drop the chain or just derail and 'autochange'?

I have a recurring problem with my new miche cranks that the bottom bracket insists on unscrewing itself. it feels at first like the chain has become loose, but it's actually the spindle moving slightly between the cups. so if all else fails, make sure it's not that...

poo is becoming a favourite word of yours recently it seems, hippy?

I use it often outside forumworld. That and moo. Easily typed when testing stuff and funny yet not offensive. Poo and Moo just fscking rock basically.

hippy It's often poor derailler adjustment or a bent derailler hanger combined with frame flex that drops the chain.
But, seeing as you were changing parts around it's also likely to be OLD + NEW = POO.
You should keep a chain and cassette together. It's not often that a chainring would do this unless the chain is well worn.
Do you know where did the chain slipped? Front or back? Did it drop the chain or just derail and 'autochange'?

No idea where is slipped. It's not 'autochange' either. It was slipping way more when I had the other chainset on it. Putting the original chainset back on seemed to solve all the problems, until now. BTW it's all old stuff not old and new.

Chain seems ok condition. It's probably the rear dr. I'll check it tonight.

tallsam This is slightly unrelated:
Today on my geared roadie I noticed my chain slipping when I stamped on the pedals. It actually happened going across a junction and I nearly came off. I just changed the chainwheel (old for old but replaced for newer old) to fix this problem but its started again so I'm thinking it could be the chain or even the sprocket.

I hate it when bikes cost money for the boring non-fun bits (ie not an upgrade or a bling part).

Sounds like the rear block (this is a geared bike, right?).

If it happens a lot in lower gears, but seems okay in higher ones it probably means the cassette is worn, rather than the chainring. Otherwise it may just be the indexing is out, and the chain is not shifting cleanly.

How tight would you say you should keep your chain? How much give should there be in the pedals, do you think?

no give in the pedals, but it shouldn't be so tight you hear it crunching as it goes around

i didnt think it should be that tight, i heard it is better to have a slightly loose chain than one which is too tight.

I personally think it should have slight give in it, I put my wheels back in every time I go to the track ( a lot ) and after after I've put my back wheel in I always lift the wheel off the ground and push on the pedals and let the wheel spin......to check to see how long it spins / resistance, if the chain is tight, it won't spin as long due to the fact that most chainrings aren't exactly circular, so you get "tight spots" ( I run dura ace chainring and sprocket by the way)....so a tight chain will most likely have more friction and less power transfer and will stress your components......cue everybody else telling me how perfectly circular their rings are!

sorry lpg, i thought your post said you should here it crunching.

My chainring is perfectly circular.

My chainring is not perfectly circular. I am sad.

What's a chainring?

who are you?

i use shimano bio pace rings, dead cheap...........bastard to get chain tension tho.......

Try the q rings.. "momentum carries leg through dead spot"..

na, that's just fuckin' weird

eggrings:
http://www.highpath.co.uk/cycles/eggs/01.html

hippy eggrings:
http://www.highpath.co.uk/cycles/eggs/01.html

gah!
ooooh, hang on a second-- custom chainrings...

And they're WELSH! :)

hippy Try the q rings.. "momentum carries leg through dead spot"..

Ahem...

http://rotorcranksusa.com/i1-rs4x.shtml