Anyone using spacers on their hub?

the praise that mrsmith and others have given goldtec hubs has persuaded me to go for them.

my frame is spaced 132.5mm and my chainring chainline is 41mm. The normal chainline is approx 45mm according to Goldtec's web site.

So my thinking is, buy the 120mm spaced hub, then buy from goldtec the 130mm axle conversion kit thingy. Then my chainline will be 45mm minus 5mm - 40mm! Get a cog that budges over a mm.

Now to the main point... anyone else doing this, work ok and got a picture they could post? I don't want my bike looking nasty ;-)

Can you point me in the direction of the axel convertion thingy, seems a bit weird. I would think that it woule be a longer axels + spacer hence your chainline would stay the same. You could put all the spacers on one side but then you would loose the flip flop ability of your hub because it will not be zero dish.

I say just buy a new b.b a couple of mm longer much easier. (You'll still need the axel kit if you don't fancy cold setting your frame). Work with the bottom braket to sort large chainline issues and then spacer for the little ones.

good luck!

Just did a little sketch, and you're right.

Hmm it looks like the b.b. will have to be changed. I wanted to avoid it because the cranks are external bearing, so it'd mean pretty much a whole new drivetrain :/

although that would be an excuse to get those very nice looking sugino cranks!

oh I understand why your reluctant to change the cranks. Like I said you could sick the spacers all on one side and just make sure when you build your wheel it is dished off to the side, you will just loose the flip flop bit of the hub. You could do this as a temp job and redish to center when you have bought some new cranks if money is tight.

Have you tried moving the chain ring to the outside of the spider (if it isn't already)? This may bring you close to 45 mm and with a asymetric cog (a brand was mensioned in another thread) and or spacers this may be able to sort you out? Just an idea.

One more thing an exact chain line although desirable is not always nessicery, as long as you are with in 1 -2 mm you should be fine. Mine is about 1.5 ish out and no probs after about 4.5k miles.

i don't think you need to buy the extra axle you just order the hub with the one you want.
i think the surly cogs were the asymetric ones?

goldtech swapped my axle free of charge when i bought a hub with the wrong length axle in it (for a timetrial frame with track ends and 130mm spacing - my fault for not checking first). just post it back to them

TheBrick Have you tried moving the chain ring to the outside of the spider (if it isn't already)? This may bring you close to 45 mm and with a asymetric cog (a brand was mensioned in another thread) and or spacers this may be able to sort you out? Just an idea.

This is my next try. On the inner side of the spider (nearest the centre of frame) is the chainring, then on the other side of the spider is a metal bash guard.

I think I might be able to take off the bash guard, measure the thickness where it bolts to the spider, then order some spacers of the equivalent thickness from hubjub, then space the spacers between the spider, and the chainring on the outside of the spider.

Mr Smith - you have a goldtec track rear do you not? Could you measure what the chainline line is please i.e. from the inside of the drop out to the where the threads end?

i did a little sketch in photoshop just in case i'm making little sense (the red bit)

goldtec say the chainline is "roughly" 45mm. im hoping i can use a thiner cog, and then space the chainring - and all should be well (within a couple of mm)

ta :)

it'll be fine +- 1.5mm or so..

don't get a very thin cog. with goldtec on a correctly laced fixed rear wheel, the chain (esp if it's 1/8) will sit damn close on the spokes around the hub flange with cheaper, thinner cogs.

i measured with a vernier and the distance is 20mm to the shoulder where the threads end (not the flange)
this is on a condor pista 120mm rear end

cheers mrsmith for measuring that.

rpm - ok, i'll bear that in mind, ta.

A quick question that's sort of on topic to save starting another thread:

To move my chainline 3mm out do I need a spindle that's 3mm longer or 6mm?

not the easiest answer (is there no definites regarding chainline!!?)

you need a spindle 6mm longer.
BUT there's a rumour that Shimano BBs go up in size only on the drive side..so you go up 3mm

also depends whether cranks are ISO or JIS taper

it's a fuckin pain, almost worth getting a £8 shimano BB just to try it.

Thanks, that was what I wanted to clear up.
I've got 42 mm on a 107 JIS Stroglight BB, so I guess I want the same one in 113 for a 45mm chainline

I've got stronglight on a 110 JIS, it's spot on, except I have a 2mm shim on the driveside..

so....

yes, get the 113 with almost 99% confidence!

Pukker, thanks