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• #252
Plan is to buy a "standard" axle and match my clamps to that item.
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• #253
If you want to run the bigger tyres tyres like Bud/lou on 100mm rims. The Chain is going to hit the tyre on a standard fat chainline with a geared set-up. Your tyre Width should in theory be fine though.
The bit I struggled with, was getting the chainstay around the tyre, and still have decent crank clearance. Basically I failed. I got crank strike out of the saddle. But some 'optimisation of my cranks with a file has fixed this.
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• #254
Trek Fatty
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• #255
It's over.
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• #256
I've got a tracking number for an On-One Fatty rolling chassis.
Almost makes up for work-related exhaustion.
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• #257
It's over.
TBF Trek did a good job.
Then lance promoted it.
Then it was over.
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• #259
I'd have that Walmart if you could get it in the UK
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• #260
$200! I can't imaging how heavy it is.
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• #261
You really wouldn't want it. I read a few reviews. It's what you'd expect for $200
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• #262
$200! I can't imaging how heavy it is.
A quick Google reveals the weight - 47lbs
I have owned lighter cars.
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• #263
So have I.
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• #264
I have an On-One Fatty :-D
I can't ride it home from work :-(
The freehub on the stock wheelset needs a service, it's ridiculously sticky.
BB5 calipers don't clear the spider on Shimano XT 160mm rotors.
Didn't have a spare 9sp deraillieur and the only tensioner I have without hideous play in the pivot ia an un-sprung alfine tensioner, so were it not for the other issues, I'd be riding home on 32x12. On the other hand 78 gear inches is a bit much through 5 teeth.
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• #265
One bundle of joy:
One rolling chassis, one heap of parts:
One fatbike, with issues:
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• #266
[I'll stop hogging the thread soon]
I'm not giving up on the DIY Fatbike, but now that I have an OTP, I can buy a pair of Floaters without having to return them.
Rear tyre is an "Endomorph 3.8", but the mouldings say "Innova 4.0" so I wouldn't be surprised if an On-One Floater 4.0 (apparently made by Vee Tire) measured up to 3.8".
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• #267
Enough about the bike...what are the little tank things on your desk?
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• #268
+1.
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• #269
I think he was building robots to drive around his building and check the temperature/wifi etc.
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• #270
Enough about the bike...what are the little tank things on your desk?
+1.
We have about 25 Arduino-based robots we built to introduce year 9 kids to programming before they make their GCSE choices.
We invite Cheshire schools to send pupils (tutor-groups rather than self-selecting geeks) for a day where we give them a presentation on how tech is everywhere (e.g. washing machines) and is accessible (e.g. FOSS programming tools, Arduino, RPi...), brief them on the robots and the Arduino programming environment, then we let the pupils form pairs so it's 2 pupils, 1 laptop, 1 robot, 1 member of staff supervising.
In the last session I supervised, two of the most successful pairs consisted of girls with no prior interest in IT or technology.
I think he was building robots to drive around his building and check the temperature/wifi etc.
I have a project to design and build a robot which will self-navigate and deliver post, printer supplies etc, using wifi trilateration for wide-scale positioning, stereo-vision for local obstacle recognition and ultrasound for collision avoidance.
I have a pair of 700-series brushed motors but I'm currently struggling to find an affordable pair of ESCs in lieu of designing my own.
Too many projects, not enough time,help,skill etc.
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• #271
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• #272
We have about 25 Arduino-based robots we built to introduce year 9 kids to programming before they make their GCSE choices.
http://4tronix.co.uk/arduino/4tronix-initio.php
£75 http://4tronix.co.uk/store/index.php?rt=product/product&path=66_68&product_id=169
You could definitely build the robot cheaper if you bought the parts separately as most of the parts (e.g the Ultrasound "Johnny 5" unit) are available from DealExtreme etc. but 4tronix have been very supportive in replacing broken parts in our fleet.
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• #273
Managed to get 6 of them playing robo-polo yet?
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• #274
Robots >>>>
Fatbikes <<<<
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• #275
I'm going to pick up a 35mm rim tomorrow and buy a 3" Knard...
Better?
Are you going to make the axle?
If so, you want a plain 20mm cylinder with a flange on one end and female threads in the other, into which you screw what is in effect a detachable flange. You can be tarty about rebating the axle clamps on the end of the fork to hide the flange if you like, although it's not essential.
If you buy this, it says it fits all Marzocchi 20mm forks, so if that's true I can let you know the dimensions of the fork ends on my Shiver SC for reference.