Spider Does Not Clear Chainstay

I have an old steel frame of unknown origin, it has a "Fangio" sticker on the seat tube, and a serial number on the headtube. Its got very tight clearances on the rear, even with a 700c, but the forks have a very long rake, and hence large clearances. It has no brazeons at all, but has long forward facing dropouts. Paintwork looks original, so I think it has original forks. In other words, I have no idea what purpose the frame was built for.

On to my problem....

The dropouts are spaced 120mm, so I had no problem sliding in a rear track wheel for a 42mm chainline.

I purchased a Stronglight Track 2000 crankset, which claims to give a 42mm chainline with a 107 bb.

Trouble is, when I hold the crankset against the bb shell, in line with the rear sprocket, the spider does not clear the chainstay. It seems like I would require more like a 110 bb.

So it appears that my options are:

• Dent the frame so that the spider clears the chainstay?
  
• Get a 110bb, and somehow move the rear sprocket outwards?
  
• Get a new frame? The frame isn't mechanically anything special, but it does have very pretty lugs!
  
  
  
  
  

Any thoughts?

oh dear

Definitely not option 1.

Option 2 is easily enough achieved.

Good to hear.

What should i search for to find the right kind of spacer (I'm guessing)? My previous efforts have only found headset spacers.

install the BB and see where the crankset sits then. If you need to space your sprocket out just buy some spacers from Velosolo, or use BB spacers if you have them.

Good to hear.

What should i search for to find the right kind of spacer (I'm guessing)? My previous efforts have only found headset spacers.

CNC Threaded Cog Spacer Kit

http://www.velosolo.co.uk/shoptrack.html

Different crankset with smaller BCD not an option?

Not really, its the spider whch hits the chainstay, not the chainring.

Also, I don't really want to sell a crankset I just dropped £50 on....

Yeah, but a smaller BCD might clear the stay.

You definitely need a 110 mm bb for those Stronglight chainsets. I had the earlier ST-1000 - 130 BCD - and was initially told I needed a 103 mm bb. Couldn't even turn the cranks. I then got a 107 mm Stronglight bb. This left approximately 0.00000003 mm between spider and chainstay. I lived with this for a while until I noticed it was rubbing when the frame flexed. I finally got a 110mm - fine. Your chain might be fractionally out but it really doesn't matter; kept clean and lubed it will run quiet.

My guess is those Stronglight cranks are just badly designed.

There is a list on the forum somewhere with hundreds of suitable crank/hub/bb combinations.

@OP, has it got a webbed bb??

If it's only just hitting then yo could file the back of the spider a bit.

You definitely need a 110 mm bb for those Stronglight chainsets. I had the earlier ST-1000 - 130 BCD - and was initially told I needed a 103 mm bb. Couldn't even turn the cranks. I then got a 107 mm Stronglight bb. This left approximately 0.00000003 mm between spider and chainstay. I lived with this for a while until I noticed it was rubbing when the frame flexed. I finally got a 110mm - fine. Your chain might be fractionally out but it really doesn't matter; kept clean and lubed it will run quiet.

My guess is those Stronglight cranks are just badly designed.

Your guess would be wrong.

I've run a pair of Stronglight ST1000 for 3 years, on various bikes, all with a 103 mm bottom brackets and had no problems.

Your guess would be wrong.

I've run a pair of Stronglight ST1000 for 3 years, on various bikes, all with a 103 mm bottom brackets and had no problems.

Well I really don't know how. I ran that crank on a conversion and a 'true' track frame - chainring bolts hit the chainstays on both with anything less than 110 mm...

Surely option 2 is the only way to go! New Bottom Brackets can be bought new for as little as £6 on Chainreaction.

Get a 110mm BB, let your chainline be 1.5mm out. Don't tell anyone, no one will notice.
Hell, get a 113mm bb and have your chainline 3mm out. It really won't matter that much.

If you don't mind crimping your chainstay, there are some ideas here:
http://alexwetmore.org/?cat=191

http://www.tricktrack.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2866&start=0

http://www.flickr.com/photos/singlespeedoutlaw/3649725547/in/set-72157620106353169/

Down from 118 to 50, very good price.

if the left hand crank is spaced out from the frame, you could space the bottom bracket out on the drive side so it moves accross...

I did this after spending £45 on a bb that didn't work out to be the right width... and refusing to shell out for another. I also loctited the threads and I've never heard a peep or creak out of it, and cheaper than buying more parts.

Yeah. looks like an ex-showroom model, but hey.

Think ill try the spacers first.

I can actually use a single speed spacer kit i shouldnt have bought..

I just had a chainstay crimped by Matthew Sowter of Saffron Frameworks in Camberwell.

Nice guy, £35 repair, and I've no reason to suspect the work isn't sound.

Might be of use to someone in the future.