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• #27
Stunning frame !!! They ride very well with sweet and sharp handling from original 410 a-c P2's .. More than 425mm would kill it IMHO
Here's my 95 cinder cone
Untitled by Plus one2010, on FlickrAs seen hijacking a Kona post on Glasgow's 'The Bike Station' Fb page ;)
...still, you wouldn't exactly not want folks to see this.
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• #28
No luck. They've sent it out today.
You can always sell it on here.
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• #29
Well remember all those kona model names back in the day. Wasn't the cinder cone pretty high end? Remember wanting one.
Needs yellow rock shox
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• #30
Cinder cone as I remember were mid-range, it was a bike I wanted to get back in the 90's.
Eventually got a Hahanna as it come in steel and rigid fork.
Come to think of it, I remember the spec of the Hahanna was pretty good for £300.
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• #32
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• #33
FYI
Hahanna > Fire Mountain > Cindercone > Caldera > Kilauea > Explosif > Hot
^ Hierarchy of Kona 90s Steel Hardtails (Hot was custom*, Caldera a late addition)
*Basically an explosif with custom paint and US built
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• #34
I still have a Kona Koa at my parents house. It have V brakes mother fuckers.
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• #36
FYI
Hahanna > Fire Mountain > Cindercone > Caldera > Kilauea > Explosif > Hot
^ Hierarchy of Kona 90s Steel Hardtails (Hot was custom*, Caldera a late addition)
*Basically an explosif with custom paint and US built
You missed out the Lava Dome, sat between the Fire Mountain and Cindercone....That was my ride of choice. Gave it to Winston @ SE20 Cycles when I moved house to cover all of the free work he did for me..
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• #37
weren't all of the steel frames (with the exception of the explosif and the hot) all the same though, and the names reflected different levels of components?
I though that was what made the hahanna such good value - it had shite components but you could upgrade slolwy and essentially have a Kilauea at the end.
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• #38
No.
Forgive my ignorance. Why not? They seem in a pretty good nick and the rrp is €200.
Needs:
http://www.abload.de/img/asdfr028rorj2.jpg
;)
Not going period correct anyway, so no. Sorry to all hardcore mtb enthusiasts, but I just want to build a fun ride.
Frame turned up today. It's pretty nice but really ratty. Earlier rust has been sanded and covered up with black paint by Ted James two years ago and there's a tiny layer of rust developing on the drive side chainstay. Sanding + clearcoat or new paint?
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• #39
You missed out the Lava Dome, sat between the Fire Mountain and Cindercone....That was my ride of choice. Gave it to Winston @ SE20 Cycles when I moved house to cover all of the free work he did for me..
Yes, I missed that! You are correct.
They were all nice frames - I think the first 3 bikes had the same frame - then the cindercone had a slightly better one. The kilauea had supposedly the lightest frame most years with the explosif being the better race frame as it was a bit stiffer (albeit a few grams heavier)
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• #40
I would go new paint - to be on the safe side - in case the rust is hidden underneath.
Be mindful of the seatstay dropout though - They used to snap there until they changed the design in 1997
1997 onwards...
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• #41
Apparently it already snapped once. Ted James rewelded it using the original dropout. Hope it's gonna keep up!
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• #42
As seen hijacking a Kona post on Glasgow's 'The Bike Station' Fb page ;)
...still, you wouldn't exactly not want folks to see this.
Ha yes I'll whore it about anywhere ;)
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• #43
Dont know if its suggested before but why not get a disc tab brazed at the rear? Also on-one also do a straight steerer full carbon 26-er disc forks not much expensive than chinese.
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• #44
Dont know if its suggested before but why not get a disc tab brazed at the rear? Also on-one also do a straight steerer full carbon 26-er disc forks not much expensive than chinese.
Those forks have unfortunately sold out :(. Disc tab brazing is a good idea, I'm probably going for a new paintjob anyway. It'll stall the project for a while, but on the other hand I don't have enough money atm to continue buying parts anyway.
Tyres, pedals, cassete, chain, front disc brake, derailleur and cables came in today :). I'm already eager to stop building and start riding!
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• #45
Have you considered selling the frame and purchasing a newer one? Geo would be right for your carbon fork and it would have a disc tab.
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• #46
I'd wait for that on-one fork to be in stock and get a disc tab brazed from coldharbour/talbot frameworks; the frame (IF max) is worth it esp if you are thinking a paintjob ..
Some inspiration:
SWAMP THINGS on Vimeo
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• #47
Forgive my ignorance. Why not? They seem in a pretty good nick and the rrp is €200.
The included Bottom Bracket is press fit by the looks of things. You'd need a new external GXP bottom bracket. And then you'd need to get the frame faced / squared. And after all that sram cranks are a bit underwhelming and tricky to adjust for clearance.
I'd look for used period square taper / octolink cranks like synchros / middleburn etc
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• #48
I've rode a 1995 Koa(aluminium) for years,
heard countless times the "shopper" handling argument.
Ran it with a Psylo (125mm),
when all the fast ones in my club,
had been for years on disks breaks and dual suspensions,
few were those I couldn't match for speed downhill.Tried singlespeeding with it, never looked back.
I've still got the steel 1" / edit sorry 1"1/8 / original fork,
and a steel On One non suspension corrected,
if interested. -
• #49
Have you considered selling the frame and purchasing a newer one? Geo would be right for your carbon fork and it would have a disc tab.
Meh. Might, but not gonna give up on it so quickly.
I'd wait for that on-one fork to be in stock and get a disc tab brazed from coldharbour/talbot frameworks; the frame (IF max) is worth it esp if you are thinking a paintjob ..
Some inspiration:
SWAMP THINGS on Vimeo
Great video! I am currently talking to local framebuilder Patrick Uijl (http://www.tailored-bikes.nl/) to see what he can do for me.
The included Bottom Bracket is press fit by the looks of things. You'd need a new external GXP bottom bracket. And then you'd need to get the frame faced / squared. And after all that sram cranks are a bit underwhelming and tricky to adjust for clearance.
I'd look for used period square taper / octolink cranks like synchros / middleburn etc
Gonna look for a Middleburn Uno.
I've rode a 1995 Koa(aluminium) for years,
heard countless times the "shopper" handling argument.
Ran it with a Psylo (125mm),
when all the fast ones in my club,
had been for years on disks breaks and dual suspensions,
few were those I couldn't match for speed downhill.Tried singlespeeding with it, never looked back.
I've still got the steel 1" / edit sorry 1"1/8 / original fork,
and a steel On One non suspension corrected,
if interested.So the ride was still great even with longer forks? Also, could you PM me a pic of your original fork? Cheers!
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• #50
ride was still great even with longer forks? Also, could you PM me a pic of your original fork?
Riding was great,
There wasn't that much sag on the psylo,
don't worry about suspension correcting.
The original fork is threaded with a far too long stem to have fun.
You'll have to use a shorter one unless XC is your thing.
The on one fork was brutally stiff, but eased my luddite self into disk braking.
No luck. They've sent it out today.