More chain/chain ring etc questions

hey, it's me again ;-) i feel like i just ask loads of dumb questions that have been asked before, but try as i might (even when reading the old threads) i can't find the info i want.

so, two bikes thanks to lots of people's assistance on here went down to armourtex today. i thought that, seeing as i will be rebuilding them again towards the end of the week, it's probably time to sort out the other big issues with them, too - namely, chains and gearing.

the first one (mine) has a bit of a dubious chainring history which searching will maybe lead you to, but has basically left me riding 39x16. the other bike is 44x17 at present, although the chain ring has a very slightly damaged couple of teeth (not a problem when the chain is tight).

question one: if getting new chains, must i also get new sprockets for these bikes?

question two: what chain would you recommend? like B a few weeks ago, black is slightly preferred - at least for one of the bikes. i've been looking around and found the kmc z410h in black (http://www.alansbmx.com/product_info.php?cPath=32_50&products_id=310), but don't know how good it is. the kmc z510h gets a lot of good reviews (for example, http://www.63xc.com/gregg/gregchai.htm )
but is only available in silver. i don't think it's necessary to pay 30 squid, but maybe it is?

question three: anyone know how i can figure out what bcd i need for a lemond fillmore chainring (the standard one that came with the bike)? or do i need to take the spider down to a bike shop to get it measured up to figure it out? and that probably leads onto the next question which is recommendations for a decent chainring - i'm thinking probably going back to a 44t again, and probably in black.

thanks in advance - i sense a round of beers, or at the very least, a super large fruit salad, coming on :-)

Likely to be 130BCD - the anything except track or Campag standard.

I've used expensive chains and nasty cheap ones. The expensive ones aren't really worth the extra money, at least on the road. I've been using the KMC z510hx (currently £8 from alans) and it's lasted as long as uber super izumi chains, and is a bit quieter to my ears.

You can get away with mixing new 1/8" chains with old sprockets - within reason. I've done it a lot, but if my spockets are seriously shark-finning when it's time to replace the chain, I'll replace both.

Decent chainrings from TA, MDT, etc, but you may not want to spend that much. I've been using the same 46t Stronglight Chainring for about 6 years now, and it's been through hell. Reckon I'll get another 6 years out of it :)

Sheldon's BCD page. More gold dust from the great man!

question three: anyone know how i can figure out what bcd i need for a lemond fillmore chainring (the standard one that came with the bike)? or do i need to take the spider down to a bike shop to get it measured up to figure it out? and that probably leads onto the next question which is recommendations for a decent chainring - i'm thinking probably going back to a 44t again, and probably in black.

Think it's this one, doc.

http://bontrager.com/model/05072/en

So BMMF was spot on, as ever.

Check here http://www.kiwicycles.com/partsce.htm for chains and rings.

I'm currently running the Izumi Eco chain, but I wouldn't say it's any better than the KMC I had on the Paddy Wagon. Tends to run noisy without careful maintenance.

I have a question, I am starting to notice that my chain ring is becoming more ovalised (difference in chain tension is becoming more noticeable). I was wondering if I undo the bolts and rotate my ring 1 or 2 holes would this balance out the ware or would this you make the chain more likely to hop off. Currently the chain is tightest with peddles vertical...

I have a question, I am starting to notice that my chain ring is becoming more ovalised (difference in chain tension is becoming more noticeable). I was wondering if I undo the bolts and rotate my ring 1 or 2 holes would this balance out the ware or would this you make the chain more likely to hop off. Currently the chain is tightest with peddles vertical...

The chainring and sprocket usually have a ratio that moves it along every few turns by an unequal amount so you just get back to the same position in a few turns.

Unless your rocking 48 16 for example lol, have been reading up on Sheldon and I believe I may just need to centre my ring again so will give that ago today