Servicing Brakes

So brakes have always been the bane of my cycling fixes.

I usually get everything else perfect (chain tension, pedals, handlebars, crank, etc. etc.) yet, when it comes to the brakes, everything just feels sort of wrong.

Let me elaborate: I've ridden bikes where I'll flip over the top if I crank the brake lever with full force, yet, on my own bikes, this is never the case. My braking force always feels weak.

My current setup is: Dia-tech gold finger brake lever, to a Gran Compe short reach brake.

Basically, I'm able to fully crank the brake lever, while stationary, and "push" the bike forward. There's some resistance from the brake, but not much.

I also pulling on the brake lever very hard, so it's definitely at maximum force.

Is this more likely an issue with the brake pads, the brake itself, or the lever?

I'm not sure how to isolate the problem, so not sure what and where to try and fix.

Sounds like too much cable between lever and caliper. Hold the caliper closed with your hand and then loosen the allen key bolt which holds the cable. Do not press the lever at all. Pull the cable from the end and then tighten the allen bolt and depress the calipers. This should tighten up the brakes and also reduce the amount of travel in the brake lever when pressed.

If anyone knows of any mistakes please do correct me...

Sounds like too much cable between lever and caliper. Hold the caliper closed with your hand and then loosen the allen key bolt which holds the cable. Do not press the lever at all. Pull the cable from the end and then tighten the allen bolt and depress the calipers. This should tighten up the brakes and also reduce the amount of travel in the brake lever when pressed.

If anyone knows of any mistakes please do correct me...

That's how I fitted the cable in the first place, so it can't be that... I don't think the housing is too long either, it only has a small bend in it.

I think it might be the brake pads. Any way I can treat them at home to confirm this? I've heard of baking them to soften them up before, but not sure how long and at what heat.

Thanks for the advice though, it did help validate that I installed the brake correctly at least (I hope).

I feel you're pain at the moment on my 3 bikes there seems no logic on some wheels (all 700's) some pads work beautifully and others are hopeless, here's a list

Claud Butler Fixed, black rubber nice MTB (Clarks "shimano XT") style **stop 100% anytime **with standard callipers

60's BSA single speed, MTB style mid range stop very poorly on the front unless its wet then they stop 100%, rear is Salt clear BMX pads stop anytime anywhere any speed, but can only be used on this wheel as make a horrific embarassing shriek on any other wheel

1950-60 Raleigh Racer front Camapagnolo callipers and original pads stop 100% anytime anywhere, rear Clarks road blocks **almost hopeless, gradual slowing
**
1990 Carrerea racer (awaiting copmpletion but running) stops totally dead with the same clarks road pads above with Vbrake set up, no rear brakes as being converted to fixed

I buy mine from Halfords so not too much of a range but I do agree there doesn't seem a randomness

Leverage ratio isn't correct, needs new parts that match

best way to unstick a seized side pull ultegra rear calliper?

have taken it off, cleaned, GT85'd to the heavens, and lubed. still seized. should I pull it apart and give it a full stripdown, clean, lube?

front was seized too: successfully taken off and cleaned, GT85'd etc and it's like new now.

update: sorted. took brake off again and took it to pieces, thoroughly cleaned and relubed. working and saved myself the quote 70£ for new brake set and labour