The striker forks need to go much closer to the sprockets. Nearly touching the big one. If you do set it up like this you have to make sure you shift to the small sprocket before taking out the wheel. This is one of the problems with Osgear hence the special Stallard ends where the wheel goes backwards to come out of the frame thus protecting the striker from damage, For this reason Osgears were popular as track bike conversions 'back in the day' when riders finally gave in and used gears for the first time - most people were using road/path frames with rear facing ends as they had been on fixed for years.
Needing to overshift is common. These gears were often used on very close-ratio blocks with one tooth difference. Should cope with a two-tooth difference but it helps if the ratio is even, eg 16-18-20.
You have to adjust the tension both ways every time you change gear - at least you are not juggling with a Paris/Roubaix changer and having to do the changes pedalling backwards!
The striker forks need to go much closer to the sprockets. Nearly touching the big one. If you do set it up like this you have to make sure you shift to the small sprocket before taking out the wheel. This is one of the problems with Osgear hence the special Stallard ends where the wheel goes backwards to come out of the frame thus protecting the striker from damage, For this reason Osgears were popular as track bike conversions 'back in the day' when riders finally gave in and used gears for the first time - most people were using road/path frames with rear facing ends as they had been on fixed for years.
Needing to overshift is common. These gears were often used on very close-ratio blocks with one tooth difference. Should cope with a two-tooth difference but it helps if the ratio is even, eg 16-18-20.
You have to adjust the tension both ways every time you change gear - at least you are not juggling with a Paris/Roubaix changer and having to do the changes pedalling backwards!