Quick update.
I've cleaned and serviced the pedals. they came up really nice. I could have buffed them more but did not want a mirror polished look on these.
The slots for the straps on the cages are quite narrow and might not be able to fit the laminate Binda straps, so will have to find a different pair.
The second cable for adjusting the tension has been doing my head in.
The shifter screw was fully adjusted to the band to keep the serrated wheel, that controls the second cable, attached to the shifter. So I thought, if I adjust give the right tension at the right gear, then when I change gears the cable will adjust the tension accordingly. But upon changing gears, the chain was getting slacked, so the amount of tension needed was not going together with the different size in sprockets. I thought that I probably needed a wider ratio block to make up for this.
After going through tons of images and info online, I thought about a Louison Bobet derailleur that has also got a twin cable to adjust the tension. But to do this it has got 2 'obvious' levers. And that's what made try the same on the Osgear. Change the gear with the inner shifter and adjust the desired tension with the outer wheel, which makes little 'clicks' as it is serrated. I've noticed that it runs better and smoothly when the tension is not excessive.
It seems too obvious now, but for me, it really wasn't.
I've been thinking how to improve shifting, specially going onto the biggest sprocket as if I go over the chain will get stuccoed between the disc and the block, maybe locking the wheel. So I found this useful extract from an article on Classic Lightweights to solve the problem:
"I also drilled a couple of extra holes in the gear lever quadrant from 5 to 7. This enabled the rider to move the lever that extra bit 'over and back' to the desired position for an easier gear change, with practice, all in one motion."
So, I thought about drilling 2 extra holes on the 3 speed shifter as there is enough space on the quadrant so that I will have more room for error, and the shifter won't slip beyond the last slot. But I do not want to ruin it, so I will fit instead an alloy 4 speed shifter that I have as spare, and will leave the last slot as my cushion, as going forward is not much of problem.
Will give this a go once I find the time, and if everything goes well, I can then fit the brakes and the rest to take it for a spin.
Quick update.
I've cleaned and serviced the pedals. they came up really nice. I could have buffed them more but did not want a mirror polished look on these.
The slots for the straps on the cages are quite narrow and might not be able to fit the laminate Binda straps, so will have to find a different pair.
The second cable for adjusting the tension has been doing my head in.
The shifter screw was fully adjusted to the band to keep the serrated wheel, that controls the second cable, attached to the shifter. So I thought, if I adjust give the right tension at the right gear, then when I change gears the cable will adjust the tension accordingly. But upon changing gears, the chain was getting slacked, so the amount of tension needed was not going together with the different size in sprockets. I thought that I probably needed a wider ratio block to make up for this.
After going through tons of images and info online, I thought about a Louison Bobet derailleur that has also got a twin cable to adjust the tension. But to do this it has got 2 'obvious' levers. And that's what made try the same on the Osgear. Change the gear with the inner shifter and adjust the desired tension with the outer wheel, which makes little 'clicks' as it is serrated. I've noticed that it runs better and smoothly when the tension is not excessive.
It seems too obvious now, but for me, it really wasn't.
I've been thinking how to improve shifting, specially going onto the biggest sprocket as if I go over the chain will get stuccoed between the disc and the block, maybe locking the wheel. So I found this useful extract from an article on Classic Lightweights to solve the problem:
"I also drilled a couple of extra holes in the gear lever quadrant from 5 to 7. This enabled the rider to move the lever that extra bit 'over and back' to the desired position for an easier gear change, with practice, all in one motion."
So, I thought about drilling 2 extra holes on the 3 speed shifter as there is enough space on the quadrant so that I will have more room for error, and the shifter won't slip beyond the last slot. But I do not want to ruin it, so I will fit instead an alloy 4 speed shifter that I have as spare, and will leave the last slot as my cushion, as going forward is not much of problem.
Will give this a go once I find the time, and if everything goes well, I can then fit the brakes and the rest to take it for a spin.