Stuck freewheel, Normal methods & tools won't work so I'm looking for a last resort.

Evening all, I come sealing advice for last resort freewheel removal.

I'm trying to remove a 7 speed sachs freewheel from a trispoke i picked up from here last week. Three shops have tried really hard and failed at getting it off.

The one on there at the moment might last a little while but If it goes the wheel is useless so id like to try and get it off and replace it.

The problem with removing it it he normal way is that the freewheel is so stuck that the center of the hub starts to unscrew so I'm looking for another way.

Any suggestions would be awesome.

Did the shops try a vice or a long pole? Try the other way lol

If you really must then lock the wheel in a vice pushing on the axel at each end with the nuts on the end to take the weight(don't crush the axel with the vice). Then have another nut to hold the freewheel tool loosely against the freewheel, then yank down on it with a large pipe wrench maybe even with a pole on it to make it a meter or so long. If that doesn't get it free then it won't get free.

If you are having issues with the wheel/spokes when you try then you might need to repair the wheel so when you force it the wheel doesn't break more. Doesn't need to be perfectly true and round just solid in whatever position it's in.

Cheers, they tried a vice and where definitely turning the right way haha.
They also removed the Centre part of the hub and clamped that but still nothing.

Is there a way to take apart the freewheel and then cut it in similar way to removing a stuck seat post?

Cheers, they tried a vice and where definitely turning the right way haha.
They also removed the Centre part of the hub and clamped that but still nothing.

Is there a way to take apart the freewheel and then cut it in similar way to removing a stuck seat post?

Nothing comes to mind sadly, you would be cutting towards the threaded bit of the hub or outwards from towards the threaded bit of the freewheel(whichever was being sacrificed).

It's one of those situations when you just need more leverage, longer poles and to be more firm with it. If you know a mechanic and have a freewheel tool with a socket fitting on it then you can use a long breaker bar and scaffold pole.

How To Use A Breaker And Cheater Bar On A Difficult Nut Or Bolt - YouTube

Like in that video but with the hub clamped in a vice instead of a car wheel. You will have a hard time to round off splines but try to be even with the pressure as if it does loosen and spin suddenly you could fall over lol

Cheers, I'm a little bit reluctant to put anymore pressure / force on the wheel or hub because I don't want to damage them. I think I'll just have to leave it place and ride it till it's knackered and then deal with it.

Just to confirm you are sure this is a freewheel not some weirdo proprietary cassette?

You should definitely be able to disassemble and cut the freewheel off.

There should be a ring at the front with some notches around it, undoing this should allow you to remove the cogs and the eventually the bearings, pawls etc leaving just the inner part of the freewheel. Cut a slot through that - very carefully - with a dremel etc and it should free off the pressure. You'll probably nick the freewheel threads on the hub but if you just cut one fine straight line it shouldn't be too much of an issue.

This seems to be a sachs freewheel though how closely it'll resemble what you have I don't know. The piece above the red bearing cages is what should be left on the hub and will need cut off. I think the piece beside that is the notched ring from the front of the freewheel assembly. Seems like that particular model maybe has a couple cogs to uncrew to get access to the notched ring.

Image came from FreeWheelSpa which has loads of photos of various freewheels in various states of dis and re assembly, might be useful.

Awesome, cheers @ mechanical_vandal.

Looks like I need to buy 2 chain whips and a dremel unless someone with the tools want to come and give me a hand in exchange for beer.

You should definitely be able to disassemble and cut the freewheel off.

There should be a ring at the front with some notches around it, undoing this should allow you to remove the cogs and the eventually the bearings, pawls etc leaving just the inner part of the freewheel. Cut a slot through that - very carefully - with a dremel etc and it should free off the pressure. You'll probably nick the freewheel threads on the hub but if you just cut one fine straight line it shouldn't be too much of an issue.

true dat. been there done that.

Check out the Sheldon Brown web page about removal of freewheels by destruction.. http://sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html#disassembly
Sounds like the threads have melded onto each other similar to a seatpost/frame situation (Steel threaded freewheel body onto alloy hub)
You cant use the ammonia releasing method as it's the alloy hub bit that you want to save but have you tried any direct heat with a mini blowtorch and the use of proper penetrating oil which should be your first port of call before heavy handed vice applications.

The problem with removing it it he normal way is that the freewheel is so stuck that the center of the hub starts to unscrew

This is what I don't understand. What type of hub is it exactly? Are you saying it is screwed together in 2 parts? Seems like a crazy design to me.

If and when you do get the freewheel off, it might be worth considering building a better hub into the rim.

Have you tried a bloody big hammer? Normally fixes most problems, or eradicates them...

Cheers for the suggestions.
So far I taken all the sprockets off and and I'm left with the main body of the freewheel. Now I need to undo the lock ring and get down to the inner part that screws onto the hub so I can cut it free with the dremel.

Hopefully by the end of today I will have sorted it all out.

It's off!!!
Managed to cut a slot down the side withy the dremel and use an old steel tyre lever to Pry it open a bit. Sprayed some gt85 in there and and used the tyre lever to turn it and it came off.

Cheers for all the help.

Glad it worked out.

Cheers mate,

Spoted some patches of nail varnish or something under the studio light that on closer inspection look like they are covering little cracks or chips.
Had a ride around on it as a front with a spare axle I had and it feels all right but now I'm a bit nervous to ride it which is annoying after all the effort.

dang