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• #2
Do not spray in your house at all, the chemicals are extremely harmful and will stink your house out for weeks. Sheds make the best make-shift spray booths. You need heat and lots of it so make sure it's super warm.
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• #3
Planning to respray my old mountain bike frame so if anyone has left over stuff or anything let me know.
Still reading up on everything but is going to be my winter project to turn the spare room into a makeshift spray room and then spray, rebuild and upgrade/modify a bike.
Yep, lethal solvents, DON'T DO IT!
tbh, it's cheaper to get a good powder coat, there's a company in Brum that'll do a frame for about £40. If you DIY:
Paint stripper and gloves £15
Thinners ( to clean frame ) £10
Pack of assorted wet and dry ( you'll need 400, 800 and 1200 ) £10
Can of primer £5
2 cans colour £16
Can clear £6approx prices, plus the lining of your lungs if you don't work with a mask and extractor!
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• #4
All the information I'm getting say to avoid stripping the existing paint as the stripper will be lethal stuff and you can never do as good of a job at home as the factory primer.
The paints then have 3 types being water based or oil based or 2 part paints, the 2 part ones have reactive chemicals that are really nasty. You also have a couple of methods so laquer types which take lots of sanding between coats and are more nasty and enamels that are often used to paint radiators and baths.
I'm looking at stuff from the plasti-kote range so they don't react badly with each other and are easily available. Thinking of spraying white but unsure white on white primer is a good idea for coverage and visually seeing it's been gone over.
Primer
www.diy.com/nav/decor/paint-woodcare/specialist-paints/spray_paint/Plasti-kote-Metal-Primer-Spray-Paint-White-400ml-9254021?skuId=9261720Colour
www.diy.com/nav/decor/paint-woodcare/specialist-paints/spray_paint/Plasti-kote-Metal-Protekt-Spray-Paint-Gloss-White-400ml-9254016?skuId=9261715The point of it isn't for an amazing finish but to learn and just know I did it myself.
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• #5
I have stripped and painted frames in my garden with nothing more than a can of nitromors, old knife and a bit of wire wool. Then sprayed with undercoat and colour of choice with no problem, I say give it a go
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• #6
Found the paint people even give a guide, not so sure about the brush instead of wet+dry.
www.plasti-kote.co.uk/Idea/icode---5236
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• #7
Don't use a brush, unless you want to see brush marks.
That webpage is utter shit, btw. Don't ever hold the can 3 inches from the frame, never spray paint a fucking saddle and you sure-as-shit shouldn't 'Trying applying black or yellow electrical tape to the frame to add even more pizzazz.'
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• #8
Spray cans are rubbish, especially Plasti-cote.
No depth, build or tenacity have primer, paint or laquer.
Having bare-metal stripped a car shell with old skool Nitromors etc. >>>> 2K respray.....I'd say for an old MTB project, hand painted matt black VHT enamel looks better than a can job. -
• #9
yeah i wouldnt be taking advice from that sight i stopped reading at "Carefully mask all areas which don't require painting, paying special attention to any working parts." hahaha yeah masking tape them up that'll do it.
other than that definitely give it a go.
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• #10
Well for £15 I'm now the owner of 4 cans of plasti-kote(2 primer, 2 other) and a sanding sponge block thing(cba with paper and steel wool I just hate that stuff). Got some gloves and masks left from other diy projects.
Bike is stripped of all parts, going to push the old headset out after I have sprayed and put the BB cartridge back in while I spray(it's dying anyway), seatpost hole I'm told by various places to plug with a broom handle and use to move the bike while I spray it.
Now I just need to track down some A team music for while I'm working.
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• #11
Primer Coat(s) seem to have gone on well. Only used 1 can which was weird, might go again with primer tomorrow/later will see how it drys.Oh and the bike was navy blue when I started so I think that's not bad at all.
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• #12
is that the bottom bracket and headset you'll be using?
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• #13
No, judging by what he wrote in the post above the picture...
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• #14
ah yes....missed that
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• #15
Still a bit of a bodge job leaving it in, primer from cans can come out thick, you may go to remove the headset or BB and find it takes a large chunk of your paint/primer off.
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• #16
Still a bit of a bodge job leaving it in, primer from cans can come out thick, you may go to remove the headset or BB and find it takes a large chunk of your paint/primer off.
When I stopped spraying I undid it just a touch and then once it had hardened a little did it back up.
I was going to spray it with the top coat last night but decided to leave it a full 24hrs(it says good to go after 1hr but better results if longer).
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• #17
hey man i have a spray booth set up in the garden of my bike shop if your into it you can come use the spray set up and i have a few colours and all the primers and clear coats u may need. just pay for the paint you use and ill help you use the proper guns.
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• #18
Did you strip to bare metal or just flat the old paint? if bare metal you need an etch primer usually to bond with the surface before the colour primer; primers are specified by colour according to the final coat.
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• #19
hey man i have a spray booth set up in the garden of my bike shop if your into it you can come use the spray set up and i have a few colours and all the primers and clear coats u may need. just pay for the paint you use and ill help you use the proper guns.
Might take you up on that offer in the future.
What shop? I like the idea of a bike shop with a garden.
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• #20
the red bike shop in highbury. yeah the garden is great in the summer, after ride BBQ!
you are welcome to pop down when ever!
Planning to respray my old mountain bike frame so if anyone has left over stuff or anything let me know.
Still reading up on everything but is going to be my winter project to turn the spare room into a makeshift spray room and then spray, rebuild and upgrade/modify a bike.