Tri-spokes etc

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  • make loads. sell for profit on here

  • If people are interested I would

  • make loads. sell for profit on here

    Loads? It's for converting the Specialized rear to a front, bit of a niche I'd have thought. The design could easily be adapted to suit early HEDs with the HG freehub, but they can be used on the back with a Surly Fixxer so I can't imagine anybody wanting one. The later HEDs with the star ratchet inside the hub shell are even less susceptible to any kind of conversion.

    It's a neat little conversion (assuming he's managed to get the two bearings co-axial), but I stand by my earlier comment; if you have a rear wheel and want a front, sell the one and buy the other.

  • I have a HED rear disc with a shimano freehub - would like to convert it for track as I would probably get more use out of it there.. Pictures:

    I also bought one of these, on the off chance it would work: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5574889051&toolid=10001&campid=5336525415&icep_item=151083099375&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229508&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg

  • ha no this one wont work, it is a screw-on jobbie.
    is that shimano body?

  • yup.

  • fixxers work with those - not all, but I think I have converted one from around same time with it. Try to disassemble the body like this

    and then see if there is any spline that could accommodate that

  • Ok - will have a look later. Will need a 120mm axle too.

  • shit just realized you mentioned earlier it's shimano.

    either way, surly sells fixxers with everything you need inc axle, bearing built in the drive side and nuts

  • Do I see external threads on the freehub rotor? If so, you might well have the 600EX based UG/HG hybrid, in which case there will be no splines between the freehub stator and the hub shell, and you will need a TL-FH10 to take it apart. Tri spokes made by Specialized have this hub too, HED briefly used a normal HG hub before switching to their own hub design.

    Once you have the axle out, there will either be a spline to fit tool TL-FH10 or a 10mm hex for a big Allen key on the hollow bolt identified as 11 in the diagram. The former means don't bother, you are not going to be able to use a Fixxer, the 10mm Allen key means it's a common splined freehub stator and you can go ahead with dismantling, make sure there isn't some weird third way I've never heard of, and then buy a Fixxer or the cheaper domestically produced SPNK clone

  • Converting rear screw-on freewheel trispok to front is easier than I thought. Get front Miche track hub axle (they use the same 6001 bearings), swap them and add some spacers to get spacing set to 100mm. simples.

  • It's super easy. My lbs handled it for 20$ haha just need something to cover the freewheel threads.

  • I'm having some serious trouble removing the freewheel from a specalized tri spoke.
    I've taken it to two bike shops and neither of them have been able to do it. It seems like the freewheel has seized and when they try to remove it the hub starts to unscrew just behind the threads.
    it look like it's got sealed bearings on both sides if that makes any difference.

    Any suggestions?

    Cheers.

  • Any suggestions?

    Yes; pictures.

    But without them, I'm guessing you have an early Specialized with a screw-on multiple freewheel, and that corrosion welding between the steel freewheel body and aluminium hub threads is proving stronger than the glue between the aluminium hub shell and the carbon fibre wheel body. If that's what's happened, the wheel will make a nice wall decoration for your workshop, but that's all it will ever be good for now.


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  • Cheers @mdcc_tester,
    I'll get some photos later on when I get home.

    The hub is still stuck solid in the wheel but a part of it behind the threads for the freewheel is unscrewing if that makes sense.

  • Do you happen to have the measurements I might attempt making one on the lathe.
    Regards
    Jim

    What are you trying to make? I don't have measurements of the Hed rear hub, but it uses 12mm ID bearings, so the easiest way to make it into a front wheel is a with a 9mm axle and locknuts off a road hub plus some 'cones' to interface the axle thread to the bearing ID. I had a load of cones made for 10mm rear axles, and you could make those with a smaller bore. After that, it's just a matter of putting spacers between the cones and lock nuts to get the OLN dimension and dishing sorted. I have a spare Shimano Sora 9mm hollow axle and lock nuts,as I was going to do it that way and then decided to make the front axle 10mm and step it down to 9mm just for the dropouts

  • This is the cone drawing, for a front on a normal road axle you'd obviously change the thread to M9×1


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  • sorry cant seem to embed the photo but
    the line on the hub behind the freewheel is where it starts to unscew.

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/111567507@N08/11370034293/

  • And then what happens? Have you taken it right off with that bit still attached?

  • That's not a Specialized, it's a Spin. Spin hubs are not built into the wheel body like Specialized/Hed, they slide in with a spline on one side and lock nut on the other, a bit like a posher version of Aerospokes.


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  • Ok cheers I'll start looking for Info on spin hubs now.
    It can only unscrew it so far and then It stops. But I haven't tried to hard because I didn't want to break it.

  • It might stop because the bearing is in that bit and the axle is holding the bearing. It would probably come off if you took the axle out, although you'd then be no further forward as you'd have an old freewheel and a critical part of your hub in your hand with nothing to grab hold of hard enough to separate them :-(

  • Cheers for the help,
    Because I've not got anything to loose I think I'll try and remove the freewheel along with the part of the hub and and soak it all in plus gas/ gt85/ coke or heat it up to try and break the bond and then stick it back in with a load of lock tight to see if it will budge.

  • If that's the one that was selling for 70£ he said it was a cassette under there not a freewheel. If so it can not be converted to a front.

  • After looking around online I've found out that it's a 'trispoke' brand wheel.
    Hard to find much information on them because when you google the name it brings up every other company at the same time.

    From what I can tell it's not the same hub as spin or hed/ specalized. It's somewhere between the two.

    Any info on these wheels would be awesome.
    Cheers.

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Tri-spokes etc

Posted by Avatar for Todd @Todd

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