Custom fixed gear, road geometry

Decided to build a new bike to replace my old giant road bike for shorter rides in- and outside town. after doing some conversions for friends I felt comfortable to build a bike from scratch but there's still a lot to learn, so here it goes:

It seems the upper cups of the headset don't seat properly. theres a gap of 1,1mm, should I be worried about this? when i took the fork out, the cups would only seat properly without the black seal, is it supposed to pop/snap? I didn't want to overtighten the bearings. (yes I have the bigger bearing balls in the lower cup). For now it does not seem to be a problem, it runs really smooth.

some other parts:

valve too short ;).

Planning to finish the build with the following parts:
Fork / Headset: Chromed "aero" fork / Campagnolo record threaded
Crankset / BB: FSA Gimondi / Shimano BB UN55
Pedals: MKS Sylvan Track, with some cages and christoph straps.
Drivetrain / Cog / Chain: 46/17 Miche, KMC Z1X
Handlebars / Stem: Nitto B115 / Deda Murex
Saddle / Seatpost: Fi'Zi:k Antares / Lightskin
Brake calliper / Lever / Cable: Shimano 5700 / DiaCompe Goldfinger / Transfil Nox Snake
Wheel Rim / Hub / Tyre: Rigida DP18 (new) / Miche primato / Vittoria Open Corsa SC

Will change parts around if I don't like them or are not a good fit (not too sure about the fork, lightskin post and murex stem)

Shiny

Did you build the frame? Interesting modified head tube lugs.

It seems the upper cups of the headset don't seat properly. theres a gap of 1,1mm, should I be worried about this? when i took the fork out, the cups would only seat properly without the black seal, is it supposed to pop/snap? I didn't want to overtighten the bearings. (yes I have the bigger bearing balls in the lower cup). For now it does not seem to be a problem, it runs really smooth.

Are you talking about the threaded upper headset race that sits on top of the bearing? Is the fork steerer slightly too long? Threaded headsets need the steerer to be pretty much exactly the right length. You could try it with a spacer between the race and the locknut and see if it seats properly then.

Indeed i mean the threaded race on top of the bearing. I can see there is still some thread (roughly a mm) left on the locknut before the steerer is compressed against the locknut's seal. so it's definately not too long, and there is already the spacer between the locknut and the threaded race (which came along with the headset). Thanks for the input, much appreciated!

Right - don't know then, unless the thread on the steerer needs cleaning up a bit.

Tonta frame right?

Great color.

Very pretty frame that, looks like it should be a really nice build!

Tonta frame right?

Great color.

Yes it is ;), nice guy (and his wife) as well. The frame and colour came out just the way I had in mind.

Good looking frame! I've been thinking about getting one of these for an everyday ride. How is the clearence? And what size is it? Headtube looks like it's over 60 cm.

Good looking frame! I've been thinking about getting one of these for an everyday ride. How is the clearence? And what size is it? Headtube looks like it's over 60 cm.

It is size 63cm, it looks kind of big but not out of proportions imo.

Handlebars (nitto b115) were delivered when I got back from London last weekend, thanks Jimjamosullivan!

Still waiting for the last parts from wiggle though.. Too bad i couldn't finish the build before road salt was spread.

So... Getting any closer to finish this? :) I'm excited to see how this looks with wheels on since I'm about to pull the trigger on something in a similar size! Looks well proportioned for a tall frame.

Any recent pictures, this thing looks sick!

that is fucking gorgeous!

Never seen lugs like those, very nice!

Did you build the frame? Interesting modified head tube lugs.

Look like Tonta? Filed stock lugs to create angles. Why not do it to other areas? Stress I guess? Maybe they bespoke casts?

Thanks for your comments guys! Yes it's a tonta frame. I do not know the reasoning for lug-choices, I found they make the frame look a bit more "modern" than the average conversions from old lugged frames. (I should read up on on the technical side of lug choices, being a ME :) )

I actually have all parts ready to finish the build. However, there is still this one thing keeping me from finishing it (apart from available time);
When trying to fit the bottom bracket (sealed bearing, shimano UN55) I noticed it was very hard to fit the last few threads of the right BB-cup. This caused a gap of roughly a mm between the bb-cup and bb-shell of the frame (thread is showing). I took it to the LBS to run a BB-tap through the shell. They said they couldnt get more threads in the shell because of the brazed material being too hard. Anyone got any thoughts about this? I think I will just take it over to another LBS, as their "tapping technique" didnt impress me much (brute force, rarely tapping backwards to remove break-up chips).

Almost finished!

Just need to adjust saddle, stem and handlebars! (I was cleaning the pedal cages and straps when i took the pic)