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@lae
You won't have any problems provided you're happy to do a little fettling.
MTBs (especially older ones like the ones these cranks were designed for) generally have a wider q-factor than road or fixed bikes, so they are designed to run a wide bottom bracket (say 117 or 122mm). Track/SS bikes tend to run a narrower bottom bracket (103 or 107mm) - which is good for chainline when using a track hub - but if you try to install these cranks on a 103mm BB then the inner ring mounting points will foul the chainstay. The good news is that since you don't need the inner ring, you can simply get a hacksaw and cut these protrusions off, allowing you to run a narrower BB. You'll have to experiment to see what size BB you can use - always leave 2-3mm between crank inner and chainstays to allow for flex.
They are actually very good quality cranks (forged construction) and, although a bit plain, are quite handsome.
If you're desperate, you can usually remove freewheels by holding them in a vice, tightening them up so that the bearings are crushed and it cannot spin in either direction, and then rotating the wheel. This will always destroy the freewheel but only occasionally destroy the hub.