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• #27
I still like my park tw2
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• #28
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-essential-torque-wrench/Any reviews/recommendations on this torque wrench? £35 is pleasingly cheap compared to some other offerings but not if it's rubbish.
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• #29
I think the Tester answer to this question was "get one with a certificate of calibration"
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• #30
That one looks identical (apart from the case shape) to the Condor branded one I have (which is a rebranded tacx one) - its great.
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• #31
Or get a friend with a torque wrench calibrating tool. FWIW, my friend's calibrating tool has always shown my Draper torque wrenches to be pretty reliable.
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• #32
I had a draper one- it broke the seat clamp on my s-works :(
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• #33
I had a draper one- I broke the seat clamp on my s-works :(
ftfy
Torque wrenches don't do anything unless someone is hanging onto them..
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• #34
Go with feel and common sense, also check household cover.
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• #35
Does anyone know if there is a difference between any of these, they all look pretty similar?
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/x-tools-torque-wrench-2-24n-m/rp-prod11142?_$ja=tsid:46412|cgn:X-Tools+-+Tools|cn:Chain+Reaction-UK-PLA-PLA-All-DT-SE|kw:34294UK_X-Tools+Torque+Wrench+2-24N.M&gclid=COvlrrS86boCFSEOwwodd0UAJw
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-essential-torque-wrench/
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/bbb-btl-73-torqueset-torque-spanner-set/ -
• #36
is 3-15NM not just hand tight?
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• #37
I have the BBB one, its pretty good does the job
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• #38
Yep. And if you have a calibrated hand, you don't need a torque wrench. However, unless your hand can tell the difference between 5Nm and, say, 8Nm then you'll still need a torque wrench if you want to do things properly.
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• #39
I ended up getting the Madison/M:Part wrench from Ribble which most people (including road.cc) seem to reckon is in fact a rebranded BBB wrench. Seems decent so far but I've not had much chance to put it to the test.
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• #40
Yep. And if you have a calibrated hand, you don't need a torque wrench. However, unless your hand can tell the difference between 5Nm and, say, 8Nm then you'll still need a torque wrench if you want to do things properly.
At around 6.5Nm there is a cracking noise which is a bit of a giveaway.
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• #41
Nobody has mentioned a Norbar TT20. Its range is 1-20Nm, which is all you'll ever need for over 90% of bike applications (I can only think of the nut on the back of a rotor 3D which holds the spider to the crank, this is 40Nm). I have one and find it excellent.
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• #42
Quite a lot of stuff is 40Nm, although you can usually get away with doing those things "pretty tight".
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• #43
IIRC GXP crank bolts are 42Nm and complain loudly if it isn't correct. Two torque wrenches, one for the light stuff and another for the 40-50Nm range, is the only real answer.
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• #44
I have 2 X Norbar- one is the TT20, I can't remember the name of the other one but it handles 20Nm upwards.
Very nice kit.
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• #45
Edit: just noticed I'm repeating myself upthread.
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• #46
I've got some Draper and some Snap-On torque wrenches, as I bought them originally for working on cars rather than bikes. They're still torque wrenches though, just without the Bike Tax.
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• #47
Bloody cyclists, not paying tax.
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• #48
i use "garant" mechanic torque wrenches. they are precise and made to last.
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• #49
I'm getting a torque wrench from Mrs Sparky for my birthday. Which one do I point her at? Would like a nice one, that'll last. For up to 15nm... May also need to borrow a heavy-duty one when I fit my Omniums if anyone can help out?
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• #50
just bit the bullet and went for the draper
will report back in detail on my findings !