Raleigh Headset Issues

Having an issue w/the headest on my 80s Raleigh.

The headset itself is properly tightened, however there's still a bit of play, feels a bit sketchy over bumps.

Between the top of the headset and the securing nut, there's what look like two metal spacers/large washers. These seem to be able to skip over one another on application of force on braking, leading to a bit of forwards/backwards fork movement.

I can't do the headset securing nut any further, I think it might be a replacement job.

If so, what can I actually replace it with? I've been told it's one of those old proprietry thread Raleigh jobbies. Can I replace the lot with some kind of modern alternative, or am I rather screwed for options?

Apologies for the unexpert description - Headsets are slightly voodoo to me, despite having a read of Sheldon's bits on them!

post a pic?

from what you've described it may be just a case of putting correct depth of spacer washers to allow nut to secure the complete headset assembly

What sort of bike is it?

I thought the proprietary threads were largely restricted to the 3 speed, sit up and beg types.

Like RG says, it sounds as if the steerer tube is too long and the top nut can't screw down far enough to secure the HS: trim steerer or add spacer.

Pics below - thanks guys! Not sure what it is exactly, I know it's a Raleigh, and judging by the Sachs-Huret Eco derailleur, it's somewhere from mid to late 80s. It's been repainted before I got it, so not hints there... If anyone can shine any light, then please do.

I'd say the forks have been changed and now the steerer's too long.

Instead of cutting it shorter, that thick spacer's been added...but it's not quite thick enough, hence the nut bottoms out when done up, leaving too much play in the bearings.

Cut the steerer and loose that thick spacer.

don't blindly cut the steerer as you need to make sure there's enough threading remaining..

I'd say the forks have been changed and now the steerer's too long.

Instead of cutting it shorter, that thick spacer's been added...but it's not quite thick enough, hence the nut bottoms out when done up, leaving too much play in the bearings.

Cut the steerer and loose that thick spacer.

So in other words, the top of the steerer is poking out of the top of the headtube, covered by those spacers?

don't blindly cut the steerer as you need to make sure there's enough threading remaining..

Duly noted sir - need to take the entire assembly to bits methinks, but not confident doing it before this Saturday's London-Cambridge run...

Raleigh lock nuts often have a rim on the top edge to give a nice tidy appearance. If the steerer tube is too long then said rim tightens onto top of steerer tube before the bottom of the lock nut has engaged and tightened onto the washers/spacers. Problem can be solved with: a) deeper spacer, b)extra washer, c)having a lock nut without a lip (thus allowing steerer tube to pass right through) or d)cutting down steerer tube. Of these four options d) is by far the most hassle.
Good luck.

PS when I rebuilt my 80s Raleigh Elan last week I used the headset of my son's baby bike and that had a nut without a rim, there's a pic of my bike in current projects and this is the type my son's bike was:

FIXED!

After some telephone triage by @ScillySuffolk, had the top of the headset to bits.

Turns out there was some solidified gunk in the top cap there, hence the movement in the ball-bearings. Scooped it out and suddenly no more jiggling!

For the want of a nail and all that...