Fork / headset troubleshooting

Thought I'd tap the LFGSS hive mind on something...

I might be able to get my hands on an old Dawes Lightning (late 80s) that I am considering restoring or attempting to turn into a SS. Before I embark on this, I wanted to check something:

If you apply the front brake and push the bike forward, the fork flexes backward, at the point where it enters the headtube. Would this be a problem with the fork itself, or something to do with the crown or headset? Is it safe or easily fixed (bearing in mind I considered it a major mechanical achievement to fit some new brakes that I purchased the other day to my other bike)?

Also, bonus points if you can give me any additional detail about this bike - frame material and such. I know it has had new bars / brakes etc (switched from drops) and a new crankset in its time, but it would be cool to know the original spec. Imagine it is pretty low end but that's fine!

Couple of pics hopefully showing below...

Cheers

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What do you mean by "flexes"? Forks do flex a bit, in a springy kind of way. A rattle or loose feeling is a headset issue.

What do you mean by "flexes"? Forks do flex a bit, in a springy kind of way. A rattle or loose feeling is a headset issue.

Sorry should have been more specific... The whole fork pivots backwards slightly - there is no bend where anything shouldn't. Loose would describe the feeling. As you say, my suspicion is that it is a headset issue - if it is 30 years old (and likely never serviced) then I guess it needs some attention.

pull the front brake and the push the bike back and forth. Is there any play, does it clunk around at all? If so the bearing preload needs adjusting.

Lift the front end up by the top tube and gently swing the handlebars from side to side. Does this feel gritty - in which case clean and re pack the bearings and races. Do the bars move smoothly and then get lightly stuck in one position? If so it may be that the bearing races are notched and the headset needs replacing.

Also remove the fork and check it for rust around the fork crown.

Yes - there is definitely play when you put the front brake on and push forwards. There is some surface rust on the bike but it has been kept inside for pretty much it's whole life. I'm thinking I might take it down the LBS for a full check over.

In the short term, I found a Sheldon article about servicing headsets so I might play around next time I'm with the bike.

Thanks for the pointers!

I've a brand new set of Alpina forks that I had the LBS cut the steerer and install the star nut. It has an internal headset.

The problem is, there's either too much play in the forks to have the headset turning freely, or when you tighten it to the point that there's no play, the headset doesn't really turn freely and if you take your hands off the bars you veer left sharply.

I've attached a couple of pictures of the star nut, it looks like it was installed fairly deep to me. What should I do? Should I just leave it as is and keep my hands on the bars?

http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/x430/Stephen_Tyrrell/27C536F8-6874-42A8-87F7-3F778F6E6051-699-000001370DDD2FD2_zpsc92e1d43.jpg
http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/x430/Stephen_Tyrrell/79C70A0C-9224-4A7B-AE06-8412FD6B3427-699-0000013706EF2111_zpsf86683f7.jpg

sounds like your headset is notched/ brinelled and may need replacing

http://sheldonbrown.com/headsets.html

Also, your LBS cut your steerer too short.

It's a new headset, the alpina one supplied by Dolan. It's only seen 2 weeks of use so far. If I was to replace the headset, should I replace the crown race too?

I stuck it in the work stand and greased the bearings etc and it seems to have made it better, but I'll have to get some different sized spacers because as O'Shane said, the steerer was cut too short and I can't loosen the top cap enough.

steerer and star nut look ok to me, possible binding of top cap on steerer tube, fit a 2mm spacer under the top cap...are all the headset parts fitted,eg wedge?

Are you sure all the parts are properly installed? I missed out one of the spacers on mine and had the same problem.

Newbie question, I've picked up a Dolan track frame and forks, with a 1 " stronglight headset and 1"forks, when put together there is a lot of play in forks, looking closely at forks they are threaded and headset bottom cup isn't. Do I need different forks or different headset?

Thanks in advance :)

I don't know if I'm understanding you correctly, but the bottom cup should not be threaded. Sounds like you just need to tighten the top cup a bit.

Tighten the threaded top race till there's no looseness in the forks, then tighten up the locknut. If you can't get the fork to turn smoothly - it's either too loose or too tight - you've probably got worn bearings.

Hi, root it's the fork that's threaded, so bottom cup doesn't go all the way down (I think) 606 There is no nuts, so is that what's missing? and does that mean it's a quill type stem that's required?
Cheers!

I think it would be beneficial to post a picture of what you have got.

Is your frame a precursa, or at least very like a precursa but with some slightly triangular section tubing?

Is the fork branded Alpina?

I suspect the frame and fork you have are not really meant to go together or at least the fork is a replacement (the original having been 1" ahead) and is for a frame with a longer headtube.

I suspect the headset is the 1" aheadset that would have gone with the original fork.

Options could be

1)find a 1" ahead fork and use existing headset - note finding a (affordable) 1" track fork will be 'fun'.
2)cut the thread further down the fork steerer (and possibly trim steerer as necessary), replace the headset with a threaded one, use a quill stem.
3)there's a gadget (basically a new top race)that turns a 1" threaded headset into a 1" aheadset, perhaps there's one that does the opposite.

Thanks guys, heres a link to pic's http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131007321363?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Hope that helps

That fork doesn't look threaded?

Looks like a bizarre mix of stuff but should all work as it's intended to.

Looks like 1" ahead, which might explain the "play" you're experiencing....

Looks like 1" ahead, which might explain the "play" you're experiencing....

So can the play be sorted?
The fork is threaded above crown.
Cheers

Actual close up photos will help us, the ebay one isn't the most revealing. It shows us a 1" ahead headset that is not installed fully, with a steerer sticking out the top.

Without seeing how you now have it setup how are we to advise?

This thread is deeply confusing without pics or consistent terminology. Read this, with particular reference to the pictures about 3/4 of the way down, then come back with a description of what you actually have. From the look of those ebay pics, there's no way those forks should have a threaded steerer in order to fit that frame. Like I said, "confusing".

Will put up some pics later, cheers for your help so far :)