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I think I'm right in saying (and I'm holding the fort here til someone better arrives) don't drill your frame. Just buy the appropriate brake with nut and bolt attachment as opposed to the Alan key - recessed nut system you describe.
Cheers for the reply man, but I'm pretty sure I wanna run these brakes - I have them already, they are fairly decent dual pivot brakes, and drilling a hole is gonna be a whole (geddit?) lot less expensive than buying a new set of brakes.
I've read a lot about people drilling out their brake mounts, but the only problem is not being able to drill from the underneath!
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If you put your front brake on the rear, does the thread stick out enough for you to put a nut on it? If it does you could then put the rear on the front. This will involve drilling out the rear of the fork (easier than the rear brake hole), and getting an extra long internal bolt.
Or, you could take the brakes apart and replace the bolts with longer ones, which'll work with the old-style frame holes.
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Calipers aren't expensive necessarily. Think before you remove steel from your frame. There's appropriate hardware out there.
Yeah, but they are more expensive than zero. This is a well documented method of installing recessed brakes on an older frame, I'm just querying specifics rather than asking for alternatives.
If you put your front brake on the rear, does the thread stick out enough for you to put a nut on it? If it does you could then put the rear on the front. This will involve drilling out the rear of the fork (easier than the rear brake hole), and getting an extra long internal bolt.
Yeah, it does, this is what I'm currently doing. Unfortunately I want to use both brakes, so this leave me without a brake for the front. Running the rear on the front isn't an option, as putting the nut inside the steerer tube simply isn't safe in my eyes.
Or, you could take the brakes apart and replace the bolts with longer ones, which'll work with the old-style frame holes.
Hadn't thought of this to be honest, this could be an option. Still means sourcing suitable bolts though, which could be tricky as there's not much clearance for the top arm over the bolt head, and again, it means buying stuff - I'd rather drill this and not spend money on anything (however cheap).
Thanks for trying though guys!
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I meant getting one of these (it'll involve drilling the forks though), rather than putting a nut inside the fork. Though if you get a nylock nut, I see no reason why that won't work.
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I meant getting one of these (it'll involve drilling the forks though), rather than putting a nut inside the fork. Though if you get a nylock nut, I see no reason why that won't work.
I don't know why I hadn't thought of a longer sex bolt for the front caliper, this looks like a simple and elegant solution. Thanks a lot! :D
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This is the kind of bolt you're after if you want to convert your rear brake to front, nut fitting.
I've not seen many people go for 606's solution, although I'm not sure why. Maybe the bolt on the (old) rear is so short that it barely comes through the front of the fork, which leaves you with a lot of force at the small overlap between the sleeve nut and bolt. Essentially you may end up with a similar problem to if you just put a standard nut on the inside of the steerer.
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- what size thread freewheel do I buy? I know in BMX there's "standard" 16t+ thread, and then a smaller "flip flop" 14t-15t thread... which one will fit my fixed/free hub?
You want the larger, "standard" size.
- what size thread freewheel do I buy? I know in BMX there's "standard" 16t+ thread, and then a smaller "flip flop" 14t-15t thread... which one will fit my fixed/free hub?
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This is the kind of bolt you're after if you want to convert your rear brake to front, nut fitting.
I've not seen many people go for 606's solution, although I'm not sure why. Maybe the bolt on the (old) rear is so short that it barely comes through the front of the fork, which leaves you with a lot of force at the small overlap between the sleeve nut and bolt. Essentially you may end up with a similar problem to if you just put a standard nut on the inside of the steerer.
Thanks a lot, this is what I had in mind, it's nearly twice the price of an extended sex bolt though so I'll probably go with that! Yeah I think I've been relatively lucky as the front brake has enough thread on the bolt for a nut to get decent purchase, although I'd rather do this on the cheap, I'm not really prepared to sacrifice safety to save a few quid - especially with brakes!
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The neatest solution is just to buy 2 modern front brakes. Fit one to the rear with a standard nyloc nut, drill out the back of the fork (dead easy) and fit the other to the front with a recessed allen sleeve nut. Sell your current brakes on here to recoup some of the cost!
Edit: although recessed allen bolt fitting brakes are a pain in the arse if you want to take mudguards on and off over the course of the year.
Wrongcog
606
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Bearlegged-
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A couple of dumb questions about going from fixed to free...
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Hi guys,
Just a couple of quick, simple questions for you...
I'm looking to go from fixed to freewheel, but there's a couple of bits I'm unsure on...
what size thread freewheel do I buy? I know in BMX there's "standard" 15-16t thread, and then a smaller "flip flop" 13-14t thread... which one will fit my fixed/free hub?
I want to add a rear brake, but my frame has the old style mountings where the holes are both the same size. It's going to be awkward to drill out the rear hole from inside the rear triangle due to the proximity of the seatstays and seat tube, but can I just simply drill through from the front and then use a washer over the front hole? This seems like such a simple solution to this problem, and I can't see why it wouldn't work, but I've never seen anyone mention it whilst searching the web, so I just wanted to make sure there was not a glaringly obvious reason why I shouldn't do this before I write off my frame.
Thanks for the help guys!