-
• #2
I'd get some pics up dude.
-
• #3
-
• #4
fit a smaller tyre
-
• #5
^or a larger frame.
-
• #6
Track frame is for track ... no brakes!
-
• #7
Will running this brake affect the tyre much? E.g. more likely to wear out the tyre or get a puncture? I personally don't think so, because it's only taking off 1mm at most (tyre wear would take more than that off after a few weeks riding).
If my assumption is correct, I'll just keep riding it and put up with the occasional squeaking.
-
• #8
you might get fewer punctures, the brake will knock some of the bits of glass flints and thorns before they go round a full revolution
-
• #9
you might get fewer punctures, the brake will knock some of the bits of glass flints and thorns before they go round a full revolution
Fewer punctures? I never thought about it that way... that's a benefit then. Thanks :) I guess I'll just keep riding it that way.
-
• #10
Might get MORE punctures as flecks of glass loosely attached to tire are driven IN by brake... Damn counterfactuals.
Would be very easy to file a little off the brake with a half-round file. Couple of strokes probably. That's what I'd do.
-
• #11
The cheapest thing to do is to take the brake off and file the underside. A mm or 2 wont hurt the brake - much.
or spend some cash...
Get a thinner tyre for the front - slicks.
True your wheel while your at it.
Buy a ultra light weight and thin tube.
Change the rim tape to something tighter and thinner. The type thats so tight, it pings when you have to cut it off.
-
• #12
I had a similar problem, but it was due to the previous owner drilling the fork at a slightly downward angle.
I addressed the problem by bending the bolt a little upward, which lifted the caliper and gave 1-2mm of space.
-
• #13
I had a similar problem, but it was due to the previous owner drilling the fork at a slightly downward angle.
I addressed the problem by bending the bolt a little upward, which lifted the caliper and gave 1-2mm of space.
How did you bend the bolt? I'll give it a go, but want to make sure I do it properly (without compromising the bolt as much as possible).
-
• #14
Have you tried fitting a caliper reversed in the crown so it points backwards.This would give a bit more drop.It would need a standard nut fixing caliper and the rear part of the crown sleeved with a washer in place of the recessed nut.
-
• #15
How did you bend the bolt? I'll give it a go, but want to make sure I do it properly (without compromising the bolt as much as possible).
Disclaimer: the proper way is to buy the road fork...
The best way to bend a bolt would probably be a vice and hammer. I didn't have a vice handy so i hammered it while holding the bolt over a sharp edge. I first made a couple passes over the bolt with a hacksaw so it would bend straight (this sounds more dodgy than it is, the bolt was only scored 0.5mm).
Obviously this weakens it a little but it's a sturdy steel bolt and has been fine for me.
-
• #16
i would go for a small bearing between axle and forktips. gives extra clearance and your nuts will still grip enough of the fork tips. used to be done in grass track racing.
So my brakes are hanging too low on my track frame, and touching the tyres ever so slightly. When riding fast, I start to hear a whirring noise, but when stationary, there's about a 1mm gap between the tyre and the brake.
Is there anything that can be done about this? The brake I have is one of the smallest, with very short reach. Not sure if another brake would be the answer, or whether there's another way of mounting the brake that would fix it.
Happy to post more information or pictures if clarification is needed.